2 Bore Jones Underlever B/P Cartridge Rifle

CowboyCS

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I finished up the Color Case Hardening of the Action and Forearm Iron this morning.



That's it for today, I am headed for the Dentist this afternoon to see about a tooth that has been bothering me for the past couple days.

Colin
 

CowboyCS

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Today was a big day event that quite a few people have been waiting to see. I started the morning my making a plunger/striker to use for the proof testing, pretty simple rig, it's just a plunger and a spring that thread into the firing pin hole to use in place of the firing pin retaining nut and the back action lock.


A little wood dowel piece holds the plunger back, then with a string attached to the dowel it is easy enough to yank it out and drop the plunger onto the firing pin from a safe location.

With muzzleloaders, since I am just testing the breech plug and barrel, I usually just strap the barrel down to something and set it off, but in this case since I have an actual action that needed to be tested, and the fact that the engraving and color case hardening is already done, I didn't want it skidding across the ground damaging the finish, and I needed the action free to move any way it wanted to under the pressure. So I decided suspending the barreled action with one rope around the barrel and one around the tang would be the best approach, leaving the action free to do what it would.

Here's the video of one of the proof shots.

The link in case the video doesn't show:
YouTube - 2 Bore Proof test

Colin
 

myfriendis410

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What was the load? Was it a "proof" as in overloaded? Or verification of the mechanics? Inquiring minds want to know.......

Looks beautiful, Colin!
 

CowboyCS

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It was a proof, and I'd prefer not to say what the load was, let me just say that it was 3 times the PSI that the max black powder load would produce.

Colin
 

myfriendis410

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The one I'd buy a ticket to see is when you put that baby to your shoulder........
 

CowboyCS

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Last Thursday I started the bluing process for the remainder of the parts. Friday was pretty much a wasted day for me, I had two Molars extracted and spent the rest of the day dozing in my chair after I got back from Lincoln. Saturday was work a little while and nap a little while in between pain meds wearing off and kicking in. Sunday was the most productive day of the weekend.The barrel, Trigger, Triggerplate, Firing Pin Nut, and Extractor get rust blued. All the rest of the parts(mostly screws) get Nitre(Fire) Blued. So Thursday I started the rust bluing, I use a combination of bluing solutions to get the results I want, I start with extrememly clean metal, and apply coats of Pilkington's Classic Solution(mixed with one cap full of LMF Brown and Degreaser to a bottle of Pilkington's), I find that LMF is just about useless for anything else but mix just a little of it with Pilkington's and it does away with the spotting problems that you can sometimes get with Pilkington's. We have fairly decent humidity here year round so I don't need a sweat box, I just let things sit in the open air and they rust up nicely on their own.


I usually apply 4-6 coats of Pilkington's carding in between each coat and then boil.

This usually produces a dark brown to sometimes black finish.

But this isn't really the finish I am going for, I am really looking to recreate that deep lack luster finish of the rust blues from the 1880's, so I use several cycles of Mark Lee's express blue (rust, boil and card) over the top of the Pilkington's finish to get that deep luster with the nice undertone that so many of the originals have.


On to the screws, they were fairly easy to do, just a simple matter of bringing them up to 600degF for a while and letting them turn a nice purply-blue color in the nitre salts. The front sight was also done this way.


Getting closer to being finished, The rear sight is unfinished and won't be done until the load work has been done and the rifle is sighted in. I still have to make a new forearm key and blue it, and I need to make and blue the rear sling swivel post for the buttstock. But the main focus of this week will be to get the stock checkered and the final coat of wax finish on the wood after Checkering.

Colin
 

Rodney Hood

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Holy moly...have you settled on a design for the checkering?

:popcorn:
 

CowboyCS

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I finished the Checkering last week. The pattern is off of an original I have pictures of, the style is 20 line per inch, semi-flattop, border-less. I also finished up the last few parts(Forearm key, rear sling swivel stud) and got them installed. In these pictures the last coat of finish hasn't been applied yet and the new key isn't in yet.



I had the rifle finished this morning and completely assembled and was tweaking the lock(earlier in the build I mentioned that the hammer wasn't hitting hard enough), when Murphy(Murphy's Law) showed up....I managed to strip the screw that holds the hammer to the tumbler, and when I went to tap the threads out on the tumbler to clean them up, I snapped the tap off in the tumbler. iI the process of trying to dig the broken tap out, I managed to damage the tumbler. So I had to put a call in to L&R(lock guts are L&R) and get a new tumbler and screw coming. So it will be a couple days before I can finish this up and start load development and finish the rear sight. Basically at 10am I had a finished rifle and by noon I had a mess and now a couple days wait for replacement parts. Don't you just love it when Murphy stops by for a visit....In any case the next post should have finished pictures and videos of me shooting it.

Colin
 

CowboyCS

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It's been a long journey building this rifle but it is finally finished.

The specifications:

* Caliber: 2 Bore (1.325" groove diameter)
* Action: Left hand Jones Rotary Underlever w/Back action hammer lock and extractor
* Barrel: 28" long (1:48 twist) w/ Quarterrib and ramped front sight base.
* Weight: 22 Pounds 3 Ounces w/ 3-13ounce mercury recoil reducers
* Length of pull, drop at comb, drop at heel and style of stock were all built to the customers specification.
* Stock: Sugar Maple w/ ebony forearm tip, stained to customers specifications, oil finished, and carnuba waxed.
* Checkering: 20 Line Per Inch Semi-flattop, borderless.
* Finish: Action, Underlever, Triggerguard, Grip Cap, Back action lock, Off-side plate, and escheutons are Color Case Hardened, the monoblock and barrel are rust blued, the screws are nitre blued.
* Recoil Pad: Pachmayr Decelerator
* Sights: Rear - NECG Multi-leaf Express Sight, Front - Stolzer and Son's Partial Silver Caterpillar.
* Cartridges: S&H 2 Bore Black powder express 3.5" 700gr FFg, Jeff Tanner Custom Ball Mould, 1.325" 3500gr, Arsenal Primers.
* The Rotary Underlever acts to the right, at the request of the Customer, all other functions are left handed.
* Engraving is a custom pattern by Stolzer and Son's in traditional broad acanthus leaves.


















The only thing remaining to do on this rifle is develop a load, file and blue the rear sight. I'll try to get videos posted of me shooting it when I do some of the sight in work.

Colin
 
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BelchFire

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Man, that thing is beautiful if not HUGE. And that stock blemish is gone now that you've stained it. I'm glad the customer opted to shrug that off. The figure in the wood is nice as it is. :thumbs up: :thumbs up:
 

CowboyCS

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Thank You Belch. It turned out nice and I'm pretty happy with the wood.

Colin
 

slanttop357

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1.325 :skeered: WOW that if one fine looking gun :toast-yellow:
 

PORCH

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Colin the rifle is beautiful like all of your work. Do you know if there is any way to give aluminum that case hardened look?
 

CowboyCS

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Thank you for the compliments.

Porch,
I don't work with hardly any aluminum, so I don't have very much experience with it. In steel there is only really two ways to produce those colors...true CCH like on this action is done by taking the steel up past magnet and allowing the Carbon to migrate into the steel and then using temperature differential(the aeration during the quench) to cool the steel. There is a faux version of CCH that can be done with a torch by heating the metal through the color spectrum in spots. Hold the torch in one place until you get the color you want then let it cool, move to the next space adn heat it to the color you want and then let it cool...this doesn't actually harden anything but will produce the colors. Aluminum though won't take carbon, so that's out, and heating it with a torch won't migrate aluminum up through the color spectrum, so that only leaves chemical treatments and I don't know of any way you could apply different chemicals to aluminum to produce a similar CCH result.
Sorry I can't be more helpful, I just don't have very much experience with aluminum.

Colin
 

slanttop357

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Colin the rifle is beautiful like all of your work. Do you know if there is any way to give aluminum that case hardened look?
I know Aluminum and the answer is no when it is heat treated it stays the same color, Aluminum can be Anodized and the colors are endless, they can also put a very Hard Anodize on different types of Aluminum i have seen it with a unique swirling mix of different colors, hope this helps :thumbs up2:
 

CowboyCS

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I finally got out and shot it today, I put three shots through with a 300gr Goex FFg charge. My camera decided not to cooperate so I only got the first shot on video. It is shooting nice though about 6" high at 25 yards, with touching groups, so that leaves a lot of room to play with the load and file the sight in for 50 yards.

What everyone really wants to see though:
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/JqMCETeO_BU&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/JqMCETeO_BU&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
YouTube - 2 Bore Jones Underlever black powder Cartridge rifle - First Shot

I can shoot left handed but I am right eye dominate and prefer to do my sight work shooting right handed. That might have been a mistake though since it left it's impression on me after 3 shots and now it will be a week before I can shoot it again. This picture was taken before it started to turn purple....it looks even uglier now.


Colin
 
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myfriendis410

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Really top drawer work, Colin! We SO much enjoy your builds. What's the next one?
 


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