.257 Roberts

[Val]

Anyone have a good load for the .257 Roberts they would like to share? I'm interested in a lead bullet load and a non-lead bullet load.
Thanks

 

[Rancho Loco]

I don't have a load for ya, but Barnes is coming out with a 80 and 100 grain Tipped TSX in .257... Makes me want a Kimber Montana in that chamber real baaaad.

 

[Val]

I'm using that 100 grain TSX in my 25-06 with very accurate sub MOA results. My 25-06 has a bull barrel and it's not a carry rifle. I figure the .257 Roberts should be a good carry deer rifle.

 

[sidepass]

I too want a kimber in 257 Roberts. Just trying to decide if it will be the Montana or 84 Classic. That 100 grain TSX should do the job anything i'd use the 257 on.

sidepass

 

[sidepass]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (sidepass @ Nov 8 2008, 11:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

I too want a kimber in 257 Roberts. Just trying to decide if it will be the Montana or 84 Classic. That 100 grain TSX should do the job anything i'd use the 257 on.

sidepass[/b]

Well just ordered the classic, wanted some purdy wood.

sidepass

 

[prospecter]

Have had good experience with the 257 Robts. Ruger M77 with 22" bbl using the Hornady 3rd edition manual as my guide
Used all new Remington Brass as I have found from experience that I get 2 more reloads in the life of the case compared to other Mfrs or about six reloads. I always use full length sizing!

Hornady 87 gr spire point 43.5 gr of IMR 4895 WLP primer good accuracy and no pressure signs in that rifle ...... good for varmints. AVG velocity - 3431 fps max spread in vel 142 fps for 6 rounds

Best deer load for that rifle is speer 100 gr btsp 41.5 gr IMR 4895 WLP primer avg 3 shot string - 2989 fps with sprd of 33 fps, accuracy is a tack driver. Absolutely anchored two Blacktail deer at about 100 - 120 yds. they dropped like a sack of potatoes. 5 shot string in a nickel.

2nd best hunt load was a speer 120 gr btsp 46.5 grains of IMR 4350 WLP primer Avg vel - 2977 with a spread of 27 fps for 4 shots shot 1" group. This is an excellent big game round and is capable of taking elk with a well placed shot. Still has 1560 pounds energy at 200 yds

Most reloading books are very conservative in reloading info because the early rifles in this caliber did not hold up under modern day pressures. I worked up in 1/2 gr increments from mid range till I had pressure signs (cratered primers!) then backed off at least 1 to 1 1/2 grains till I got the accuracy I demanded. I recommend the Ruger M77 in this offering based on my direct experience. Rifle brand name does not always deliver performance that I succeeded in getting. Maybe that was just a 1 in a thousand rifle and I regret ever selling it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At that time I would take my reloading gear to the Sierras near Jackson Mdws Resv. I step off a 100 and 200 yd range and load 1 shell at a time looking for pressure sign then back off to accuracy as stated. Keeps from making too much ammo needlessly. Used a "Chrony" chronograph, the best for the price and works as good as more expensive units side by side, not much variance in comparison.

All this data is from my log book and is as accurate as I could be. I found that the 257 Robts performs 95% as well as a 25-06. But it is a light weight sporter whereas the 25-06's typically had a 24" bbl and was a bit less manuverable in tight situations.

One last tip.... load up a dummy round (no primer or powder) and put the cartridge bullet in the shell with a minimum depth. Using a candle smoke up the bullet before insertion and then push the bullet in with the bolt. This will show you the overall length of the bullet so it seats on the lands. The lands will mark the bullet by scraping off the black smoke from the candle. Then re-seat the bullet 1/16th inch more. This 1/16 inch is called free bore. Make sure it will fit in the magazine. If it does not then re-seat till it clears in the magazine. Recheck with the smoked bullet to ensure it is not engaging the lands. This practice ensures that the bullet is engaging the lands before it totally leaves the cartridge ensuring the bullet is entering the barrel with no loss of concentricity to the bore. A little I learned from a reloading veteran. It has a very good affect on accuracy!!

Hope this helps and you have similar success. Just remember to work up form mid range in your reloading manual as I did. Always play it safe.
Skip

Good luck and safe shooting!!!

 

[MarinePMI]

Val,

I know AMMOe has some lead bullet loads (along with the mold numbers). I'll mentione it to him, but his computer is down for the moment, so it may be a week or so til he can respond...

 

[trapperbr549]

I have a Ruger M77 and it likes long heavy bullets the best, Speer 120bt but for deer I really like the Nosler 115 partition. Surprisingly it likes 760 ball powder best and the hotter the better.

 

[prospecter]

Val,
Be careful of using lead bullets a lot. Especially at the higher velocities over 2000 fps! This will cause your barrel to lead up. The lead will start to slough off to the barrel due to heat build up. I would recommend not using it too often even for practice. If you go to gun shows etc. you will be able to find jacketed bullet supply to use for that purpose. Leading up is a bitch to clean.

Me. I like practicing with a 22 cal rimfire off hand rather than use lead bullets. Don't underestimate the practice with 22 cal rimfire. If only for the expense side of things. About 10 years ago I picked up 10 bricks of Rem rimfire for less than $100.00 and it turned out to be a good investment, still have 4.5 bricks left.
Skip

 

[prospecter]

Trapper,
Just be care to find the max load for your gun. They are all a bit different. The best indicator is cratering of the primer. When you find that BACK OFF at least 1 grain. Continued shooting with those loads can damage the chamber and action at the barrel joint due to pressure.

Don't know what pressure is max for your gun but the case/primer is the the tell all. Plus you won't be able to get that many reloads out of your cases; keep trackof that! I know guys that only neck size their reloads and get about 10 reloads per case avg.

Just a word of caution!
Be caeful out there!
Skipr

 

[trapperbr549]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (prospecter @ Dec 3 2008, 01:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Trapper,
Just be care to find the max load for your gun. They are all a bit different. The best indicator is cratering of the primer. When you find that BACK OFF at least 1 grain. Continued shooting with those loads can damage the chamber and action at the barrel joint due to pressure.

Don't know what pressure is max for your gun but the case/primer is the the tell all. Plus you won't be able to get that many reloads out of your cases; keep trackof that! I know guys that only neck size their reloads and get about 10 reloads per case avg.

Just a word of caution!
Be caeful out there!
Skipr[/b]

That is why I didn't post the number of grains I load. I wouldn't want someone to figure what is safe in mine is safe in theirs. I just meant my groups kept getting tighter as I approached maximum loads. It has been awhile since I loaded though, I don't even know if they still make 760 ball powder. That stuff sure went through a powder measure nice!

 

[MarinePMI]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (prospecter @ Dec 3 2008, 10:55 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Val,
Be careful of using lead bullets a lot. Especially at the higher velocities over 2000 fps! This will cause your barrel to lead up. The lead will start to slough off to the barrel due to heat build up. I would recommend not using it too often even for practice. If you go to gun shows etc. you will be able to find jacketed bullet supply to use for that purpose. Leading up is a bitch to clean.[/b]

Actually, pressure is what causes leading, not velocity (not entirely the same). Also, rifles that have had jacketed bullets will leave a copper fouling on the rifling that looks like concertina wire under a bore scope. This (generally) is what causes a lot of leading when shooting cast bullets (along with not hardening the bullets either by heat or lead mix). Copper fouling must be removed before shooting cast bullets.

AMMOe has actually written a very informative article on this subject in the "Gun Room" Article Archives of this site...