Any suggestions on mounting the Sensor?

Good Ole Boy

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I am wanting to use the standard radio shack sensor on my camera, but I am also wanting to have the plastic sensor cover protrude to the outside of my unit. Any suggestions from the experts on what size hole and what kind of water sealant?

also any pictures of you guys's cams using this method would be extremely helpful.

Thx

(Edited by Good Ole Boy at 7:02 pm on June 27, 2002)
 



ArkansasElkHunter

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If you want it sticking out then the sensor itself is going to set the hole size.  If thats a typo then 3/4 to 1" will work food.   The right sealant kinda depends on the type of material you box is made from.  The sensor housing is abs and take glue better than some of the Polypropylene boxs out there.  Marine Goop works well as do some of the RTV's.  If your box is plastic then Scuff it up where you glue to with whatever type you use.
 

vman

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yep.  I use two small angle brackets.  I use my dremmel to cut a slot in the pir housing and then use small bolts to attach it to the housing.  I use the slots to adjust the pir for the distance I want.  I will post some oics when I get home say around 9pm central time
 

Good Ole Boy

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I am a little confused.. looking forward to the pics. Would it work if I put the whole unit behide a piece of glass?
 

Jim K

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I drill a 1” hole in the GSI camping box from Gander Mountain, I glue the fresnal lense on the inside of the box, leave the RS sensor in its housing, put Velcro on the bottom of the sensor and put it as close to the fresnal lense as possible in the box seems to work ok for me.                     :toast-yellow:

(Edited by Jim K at 9:14 pm on June 27, 2002)
 

ArkansasElkHunter

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No glass or lexan for the sensor.  The Fresnal lens is made out of  a special material that has 80 to 95% IR transmission.  Other materials block the IR.  Fresnal has some un-groved material that you can use if you deside to go that way.  There are lots of ways of doing it.  One is to use the factory bracket turner down at 90° mounted to the bottom of the box.  depending on the size of the box you use.  Makes a neat place to store the battery and the unit can be taked out easily for repair.  Get it as close to the front as possible.  The little extra distance diddn't effect mine that much.  I only have two with the RS.  Most use the MS20
 

Good Ole Boy

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Can you guys send me pics of your camera and the RS sensor placement.

Thanks,

Jason
 

MCinIL

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GOB what type of enclosure are you going to use? That may determine how you mount it also. MC.
 

ArkansasElkHunter

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This one is a little more involved but works great

RS PIR Mounting

Front View

Sorry guys,  I always paste the same URL and then edit, jut forgot to edit that one.  It goes in the Traditional Archery section.

(Edited by ArkansasElkHunter at 10:28 am on June 28, 2002)
 

davered1

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AEH, I like the front view, Sell me a board if they come with all them FREEBIES in PICTURE!!


This is how I build mine, I use theMS290 but it is the same principle.You can get a project box from RS that it will fit into






 

ToddP

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AEH,

I'll by the sensor in the front view link from you for a couple bucks. :smile-big-blue:

I bet that sensor reaches out and touches some animals too.

Todd
 

Archilochus

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Here's a pic of a basic cam I made for a friend.  The RS 49-425 sensor is intact inside the box and looks through a plain piece of plastic material from Fresnel Tech < http://www.fresneltech.com >

oh yeah.... this would help!....


This method works well since you don't end up with any alignment / spacing problems with the Fresnel lens.

Archilochus

(Edited by Archilochus at 8:13 am on June 28, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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ArkansasElkHunter,

Are you making those items in the 'front view' ?

is that flint heads?

I've been dabbling with knapping but not very good knocking off long, thin flakes for arrow heads or knives, etc, I make a lot of gravel

Tinhorn
 

ArkansasElkHunter

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Tinhorn, Yea I knap a little and Made all the Bows and Arrows in the Pic you saw.  Abrade the edge of the Flint good with a chunk of sandstone and hold a lot of pressure down on the Blank as you strike it.  Same with pressure flaking.  Use your fingers and kindof "pull" the flake off as you strike.  The pressure applied by holding it down will keep the fracture from prematurly exiting the stone.  Sometimes you can get one to go all the way across like that even change direstions.  Takes a lot of force and your hands will get tired quick if you are doing it right.  Dont underestimate the value of a properly prepared edge as well.  If your impact is shattering the leading edge then Its not right.

Think Hertzen Cone.  Brittle Materials will break 130° off the line of impact.  Thats that little 100° cone that pops out on the window glass when you shoot it with a BB gun.  Align you Point of impact accordingly.

We are in the Wrong Forum topic to go much further, but I love messing with this stuff so let me know if I can help.      
 

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