Arrow Build-Along - "Elk Medicine"

PowDuck

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Its been a long long time since I built anything on my own for archery. I decided to build my arrows this year and go back to using wood.

ArkyBob had gotten some poplar shafts from Magnus and was very pleased so I decided to go the same route. We like heavy arrows with heavy heads so the poplar seemed to be a good fit. I contacted Magnus and ended up having a LONG phone conversation and got a good education in selecting the proper shaft for your bow. Thanks for all your help, Matt.

Selected two dozen 60-65 spined heavy shafts and got them on order. After receiving them I weighed each shaft and selected 9 of the closest weights for this project. All 9 shafts were within 8 grains of each other. (My select 6 shafts were within 3 grains.)

In this photo the nock tapers have been cut and the shafts sanded (though they really didn't need it.)

 

PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
On to the staining.

I had seen a photo of someone's arrows that had an interesting fade out stain. So being the kind of guy I am and liking things "just a bit different" I thought I'd try it. I wanted it to start very light and go to really dark at the end.



I selected a dark cherry stain to sort of match the bow they are made for, a Super Shrew Chameleon.
 

PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
5 coats of Min-Wax WipeOn Poly later and the Sharpie's came out. My cresting "rig" is pretty rigged. I made the spinner rolls out of two cabinet closer roller halves on a piece of scrap board. The tubing connector came from an old exercise band that hasn't been used in a LONG LONG time. :) A zip tie on the trigger of my drill driver worked to regulate the speed and I simply removed the battery to stop it.



I like a small crest IN the fletches so that was a must. I, also, like to have a crest line to quickly check my brace height. That's where the small crest at 7-1/4" comes from. The other main crest is just a design I experimented with on some earlier test shafts. I like simple.
 

PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
Cresting done. I was pretty pleased with my first attempt at making several arrows match. Most all of mine are all mismatched cresting, shafts, points, etc.

I did have a little disappointment with the small brace height crest line. I much preferred the two red and black ones but, as my luck usually goes, they were the LAST two I did.



 
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PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
Thanks, Guy. I didn't really want to go to the trouble of crown dipping, but wanted something just a bit different.

I had heard that wiping poly over Sharpie cresting would fade or smear the Sharpie. One guy told me it would, another said it didn't. I tried it and here are the results:
Black and silver don't.
Red does.

 

PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
OK, time to fletch. I couldn't decide what to do here either. I like a very visible fletching but didn't want to go with all naturals. I've got natural turkey primaries & secondaries, and Canada goose primaries, too. That would be too dark to see well in flight, so ...... I decided to go with two turkey barred primaries and one solid white store bought. That gave me enough contrast to be fairly well visible but not so bright sticking out of the quiver.


The four on the left are my primary hunting shafts. The other ones are for broadhead practice, etc.


 

flingem71

Well-known member
That's fantastic! Thanks for sharing your work, you got talent!

DISCLAIMER: some of the things I say may be unfiltered, offensive, or even complete B.S.
 

PowDuck

Moderator
Moderator
Thanks for the compliments, guys. Sorry it's been a few days. I'm trying to finish our new home and I have very little spare time.


I like a heavy head so I went with the WoodyWeights 75gr. and a Magnus 135gr two blade.

WoodyWeights


And broadheads.


Got to trim the excess glue, get the points aligned, and get em sharp now.

And stain and poly that little bare line.

 


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