Better Flash?

Gumboyaya

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Has anyone take the owl pf apart and physically removed the flash unit to attach separate from the camera to eliminate white out and produce a maximum flash?? I cant afford to trash one of mine to try but some of you may have done so or know how. I'm currently using a foam cutout from a beer "huggie" which i glue around the flash but i think im blocking some of the light this way. Putting the flash directly to the glass seems to be the best solution??
Thanks for any info.
Gumbo
 

chili

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Gumbo,
    I apoligize in advance if I misunderstood your post.  You don't need to put foam around the flash to prevent flash bleed. You should put it around the shutter lens. I cut a donut out of a mouse pad for the shutter to look thru and this seems to work for me. I'm sure the "huggie" foam around the shutter would be great too. I guess I should point out that I use separate pieces of glass for the flash and the shutter but according to recent posts it doesn't matter as long as you have the shutter sealed well. My 2 cents.

P.S. The mouse pad idea was not mine. Credit goes to someone on this board.

(Edited by chili at 9:48 am on May 30, 2002)
 

Gumboyaya

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Thanks Chili,
I too use a mouse pad with holes cut out but i also use only one glass. I was having fairly good luck with light bleed but recently I added a circular cutout of velcro around the lens and around the cutout mousepad. It really produced a snug fit and the velcro could hold the camera by itself against the mouse pad though I used foam to force the fit tighter. I really thought this was going to produce the best results but two weeks ago I had the camera out for a week but the resulting photos suffered badly from light bleed (an entire circular bleed pattern which I hadn't gotten before).

I had read that using a flashlight reflector around the flash was working great but I havnt' got that figured out yet so was trying the beer huggie. I test shot a roll last night and will have it developed today for a check.
Thanks
Gumbo
 

Rooter

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I isolate the flash as well as the lense.  It seems to me that I want to make sure none of that light is bouncing around inside anyway.  I want to get it all out of the enclosure to lighten up those dark shots.  I have tinkered with the idea of permanently mounting the camera inside my case.  I would mount it in the center so I can get at the film access slide on the side.  I would mount a separate switch for cam power and room at the top to activate the rewind if I want to develop a half roll.  I could even grind down some of the front of the cam to fit a little more flush.

Rooter

p.s. I like the idea of cutting the mouse pads though.
 

bikehike

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Hello,
 I think you are going to have to break the glass up so that it is two pieces. The glass will carry the flash right too the shutter if it's one piece. Many here in this board have had that problem and have had to break it up. Also they blacken the edges just to make sure there is no light being transfered. I use the a piece of glass for the flash and a UV filter for the shutter. Another thing that will produce a circle flash leak is using a clear shutter shield on the outside of your box.

Hope this helps.
 

MBullism

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Gumboyaya-

I've recently gotten excellent results with the flashlight reflectors you mention, but even after glueing them to the front of the cam I use stick on moleskin on the reflector rim to "seal" it to the glass...  the reflector by itself won't eliminate the flash bleed.

M
 

Tinhorn

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Removing the flash bulb and hopefully the reflector assembly and moving it closer to the glass is an interesting idea.  Might be able to glue it directly to the glass.  The flash does seems to be recessed pretty far back from the glass on my cams.  even after seeing the insides of about 30 Owl PF's, I can't remember how the flash cubicle is attached and if it's feasable  --- dumb membrain ---

Might be able to lengthen the wires and use phono jacks so the camera could still be removed for daytime use.  NOTE:  this may create a No Load condition in the flash circuit, all that power NOT going to the flash might turn into heat and burn up the flash circuit, don't know, some circuits can be damaged with no load)

Tinhorn
 

Gumboyaya

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If you figure something out Tinhorn please pass it on to me. I know how good you are with these electrical gadgetry. BTW, ive built two of your varmint callers and really like em.
Thanks
Gumbo
 

Shrewshooter

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If you go to your local hardware store or lowes you will find the tape that is used to insulate pipe. It is about 1/8" thick and 2" wide foam rubber with tin foil backing. This stuff is real stickie and can be rolled up and shaped to fit the contour of the cam. I glued mine own with a marine glue but im sure that any good glue will work. When i close the case the tape seals off the flash from the lens and causes no problems because it is foam rubber. The tin foil gives the flash excelent results with no bleed through to the lens. The pics on my site show a deer and some coon at over thirty feet away.The one spot you see on the lens in the pic of me is from rain drop and the small white spot in the corner on a few of them is from a leaf drooping to the edge of the lens.If anyone is intrested in what this tape looks like i will take a pic with my digital and email them to you.
 

Passthru

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 Just to make sure im not reading things wrong here,you arent actually glueing this stuff to the Camera,but to the enclosure right?
 If the flash could be removed and glued right to the glass that would work great,if its possible,it would require a smaller hole also.
 I make the hole for my flash as big as i can without overlapping the hole for the shutter,this seems to help get the flash out of the box better.
 

Lew

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Flash bleed has been my most difficult problem to solve.  I am constantly trying new ideas to correct the problem.  The canon PF with its contour is the challenge.  I have used to separate pieces of glass and have a camera in the woods right now with a ring of foam around the lens cut from a piece of 3/4 in dia. pipe insulation.  I will let you know how it works when I get the pictures back.  Lew
 

Rooter

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I have had no problem with flash bleed because I isolate both the flash and the lense from each other.  The only thing is I custon cut and layer foam with aluminum foil lining to make sure it is sealed.  I have thought about using some lexan and painting it black and making a extender to epoxy to the front of the camera at the flash to make it even with the lense.  It would be much easier to seal it.  If I make a pattern I could cut out the pieces and then glue them together to form the extension.  It would make it much easier to seal the flash if it wasn't set back a 5/16 of an inch.  So many ideas so little time.  We need a cammers get-together to hash out what works best for everyone.

Rooter
 

Tinhorn

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I 'had' a roll of "black" foam tape that was 2" wide and 1/8" thick.  (remove some paper and sticky on that side)   I bought it somewhere (?) and it is for sealing around windows when installing window A/C units......

Cut-off a piece about 2" long and cut half moons out of it and surround the Lens hole with it (stick it on the glass)  The camera mashes up against this and prevents flash blead.   I don't do anything with the flash area.

I don't think I've got any blead from all the cam's I've built (a bunch) but unfortunatly, I ran out and don't know where I got it (dumb membrain again)  I did see some similiar that was white but was hoping to find the black again.....

(******!)

Tinhorn
 

Rooter

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Here is how I isolate mine.



I use the pipe insulation from Lowes.  I have foam on the back cover that presses the cam against the foam and seals it tight.

Rooter
 

Gumboyaya

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I have four cams, the first three I used "ammo" boxes and had no problem with flash bleed. The last one I made from a really nice grey PVC electrical box which is kinda shiny. I also only use one glass. I think the flash is "reflecting" off the shiny PVC through and along the glass and into the shutter. I may have to just go back and make another ammo cam.
Thanks for all the input, I still would like to put the flash directly on the glass.
Gumbo
 

Lew

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Rooter, I like your setup it sure looks like that would work.  That is similar to what I have out for testing right now, but the idea of putting Al foil inside the flash seal is a nice added touch.  Thanks for posting the photo.   Lew
 

Rooter

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I spoke to a camera shop owner and he suggested the aluminum foil.  He said dark colors will absorb the light while the aluminum would reflect it around until it finds its way out of the opening.  As I said earlier I have a Canon BF model which has a weak flash on one of my cameras.  It works amazingly well for a non-PF OWL.

Rooter
 

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