Brian's board

ToddP

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You guys that have used Brian's pre-assembled board.  What do you recommend for push buttons and connectors?  

I usually get my parts from RS but am open to other suggestions.

Thanks,
ToddP
 



Dbworld

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On one of his documents he has a parts list from allelectronics.com.  The pushbuttons are like 30 or 35 cents a piece.  
 

Dbworld

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Here is (I think) all you need from allectronics.com.   I haven't got my board from Brian yet (should be today or tomorrow).    I'm probably missing some stuff.   I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

2Mini PB NO Monentary spstMPB-1B $0.35 $0.70
1mini toggle switches DPDTMTS-8 $1.25 $1.25
1mini toggle switches SPDTMTS-4 $0.90 $0.90
 

ArkansasElkHunter

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Todd,

Jameco is $4.25 for shipping and AE is $6.00    Jameco has the PB for $.49 in red or black.  AE just has black.  Jameco also has a SPDT toggle (on) off (on) with momentary on on both sides for $1.15.  you can use the Radio shack toggle cover with it.  I like it better than the PB's.   Only thing to think about is you can't push both at once.  None of briand functions need this option except maybe the security option.  I don't use that so I dont know.  The connectors are also at jameco for $.19 #163686(5 pin) and #100765(female pin) $.10 .  
 

ToddP

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Thanks guys.  I should have looked at the part list in Brian's doc a little closer.  I was thinking that was parts needed if I bought the chip alone.

Later,
Todd
 

ToddP

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Hey guys.  I wired up one of Brian's boards today with a RS PIR and Canon Owl PF and nothing happened.  I'll describe how I wired things and maybe someone can tell if I did something wrong.  First, the two pushbuttons.  I have a wire running out to the button and another running right back to the hole beside the first.  Same thing for the second pushbutton.

The ground, VCC and PIR trigger run to the places where Brian shows on his picture.  VCC off Pin 1, Trigger off Pin 2 and ground on the flip side of the board beside the hole, like pictured.

The LED has a wire running out to the LED the right back to the hole beside it.  
And the refresh/autofocus, camera common and shutter wired as shown.

There are no switches involved.  I wanted to make sure it worked on the bench before I added the switches etc.  At first I didn't wire the camera, just the LED, to see what happens.  Nothing, the has not lit at all.  

Does this sound like it's wired correctly??  I have wired six with out a timer board with no problems.  Now I have problems.  The directions seemed easy enough.  Any suggestions to what I am missing?  I cut the speaker wires on the PIR.  Do I need to do something to them?

Thanks,
ToddP
 

Hill Hopper

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Recheck your schematic. Can't say for sure, but I don't think the PIR triger goes to Pin 2 of his board. I think Pin 2 goes to an opto. Check me out on this, but I think the trigger goes to pin 5 thru the transistor

Butch

(Edited by ****** at 2:05 pm on May 12, 2002)
 

Dbworld

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I can tell you why the same thing happened to me.  I had the pir in the off position. Should be chime.  have no idea what would happen in the alarm mode? I've done 4 of Brians boards now.  I felt pretty stupid with that one.  I also had problems with one where a small piece of brass or something was across the etchings.  Not sure where it came from though.  From the etching process maybe???? I have no idea.  I just know it caused me fits.

I wired mine pin 1 vcc and pin 2 trigger...ground on the back.

Do you have the led correct?  It makes a difference on positive and negative on all I've done anyway.  I steal all my led's from old pcs in the basement.
 

Hill Hopper

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Sorry, I thought you were talking about the pins on Brians chip.duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Butch
 

Brian

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ToddP,

Sounds like the LED is backwards.  Check to make sure the polarity of the LED is correct.
If that is not it let me know.  It sounds like everything else is ok as long as there are no solder bridges anywhere.
 

Tinhorn

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That is pretty slick, glueing the timer in that RS PIR notch,

Brian "Intentionally" made the width of the board to match that notch like that, RIGHT!


he he

Tinhorn
 

ToddP

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Thanks for the help.  Thing is,  I still get nothing.  I tried the LED both ways and got nothing.  I tested the LED against the battery and yes it does work.  Wires are connected just like DBworld shows in the pic he posted.  One thing I want to check is a what looks like a bridge between two solder points.  On the pic Dbworld posted,  http://www.dbworld.net/ikonboard/images/upload/mc.jpg   is the solder point at location #1 and the solder joint below it soldered together?   My board has some solder bridging the gap between the two but I'm not sure if it suppose to be there or not.  Beyond that,  I don't know what's happening.

Another question probably more for Brian.  Brian, you have these PICs set up for 5 power ups before security measures go into effect.  Can this effect me at this point?

I have two of Brian's boards and I couldn't get either to work so it's either the PIR or my wiring.

Thanks,
ToddP
 

Dbworld

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You should still get the initial light on power up even if the security needs to be activated.    Another thing i had problems with is before I put in the on/off switch for the power I was getting inconsistent results when I just plugged the battery in for testing.  I finally just added the switch and pushbuttons because it was becoming more of a pain without it.  I think that bridge should be OK...but I'm not sure.  
 

MCinIL

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Todd, the solder you refer to doesn't matter if they touch cause they are on the same terminal. The run on the board is to several spots actually there. Is your board wired like the one in the pic. Other than that I don't know but I'm sure Brian will get you straight. Good luck. MC.
 

ToddP

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MCinIL,

Thanks for the heads up on the solder point.  I thought that was the way it should have been.

Yeah, the wires are correct.  This was easier than wiring the basic PIR and Owl with out the timer yet I got six of those to work with out any trouble.  Go figure.

I'll add switch to the power supply so I don't have to keep unplugging the battery.

Have to check over it some more tonight.  

Thanks,
Todd
 

Brian

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ToddP,

DB world is right you should still get your intial blink from the LED even if you are in security mode.

Since you are not getting the first blink something is not hooked up right or we may have a solder bridge somewhere.

Have you checked your sensor to make sure it is supplying 5 volts to the board.  Check and make sure the board is getting 5 volts.  Also, the LED + should go to the left hand solder pad looking at the picture provided.  I know you have tried it both ways but I just wanted you to know the right direction since it wasn't labeled.

Check and make sure you are getting the 5 volts with reference to the board not the sensor too this means your ground is good at the board as well.  Once you have the 5 volts the LED should blink on power up.

Tonight if you are still having problems you can call me and we can go over some more checks.

I will email you my number.
 

Tinhorn

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Also, if you connected that LED to a battery with out a current limiting resistor, it may be burned out now........

Tinhorn
 

Brian

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Oh yeah.  Tinhorn.

As far as making the board that size to fit the RS sensor.

I em... er... um... did it on purpose.  Yeah that is it.  I did it on purpose.

That is my story and I am sticking to it.
 


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