Camera case/box suggestions...

snuffysmith

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Looking for suggestions on what type of box to house my next cam. Thinking of welding one up out of some light plate steel so as to to get a chain and lock on it to keep someone from getting sticky fingers. I know it will be heavier, but hey, it should work long as you don't mind lugging the thing. I found a few military medical boxes on Cheaper than Dirt, but they're too small for what I have. I wouldn't mind using another hard-shell camera case because they're easy to weld up a anti-theft frame for it, but they get expensive and that's cabbage I could put into something else.
Any suggestions?
Thanks Folks
 



tomtruck

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have you tried one of the metal ammunition containers, almost all of the army surplus stores have them and they are cheap..just a thought..
 

wfontjr

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i have used the pelican 1060 and the home depot 6x6x4 plastic electrical box and metal box with very good results, have not lost a camera yet due to the boxes

how does everyone feel about the plastic and metal first aid cases? pros and cons?
 

kmitch

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Snuffy,

I'm a big fan of ammo boxes. Cost is not a big consideration, security is. Where I hunt although it's private land we have a number of outlaw hunters. Here's a photo of what I build.


Also here a link to more photos with construction details. From my perspective these are about a secure as you can make one. I've been using a piece of chain with a ring welded in one end to secure it to the tree. I'm getting tired of humping all the weight through the woods so I'll probably start using a cable.

The square tubing on the latch puts the lock out of reach of bolt cutters.

Cam Details

Keith
 

passgas55

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Keith,a question for you about your ammo can. You have that sq tubing protecting your lock but if they cut them 2 latches on side of the snap latch ,will that open the can up? I went from the plastic box to the 30 cal ammo can which is water proof and very strong.What I did was to add a hinge to go with the snap latch.It is not fool proof but may slow them down.
http://community.webshots.com/user/passgas55  
 

SouthernStyle

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Thanks for your post Keith.  It gives us newbies some good ideas.  What tool do you used to cut the rectangular holes in your ammo cans?

Scott
 

kmitch

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Passgas55,

I agree. I'm vulnerable in that area. Was just looking at it and can add a piece of flat bar welded to the square tubing to cover the latch wires. I did that on some feeder timers I built in ammo cans several years ago. Can't make it bulletproof but can make it difficult.

How was your hinge setup? Does it cover the latch?

Southernstyle,

I cut my holes with a plasma cutter. It cuts quickly and does not distort the thin sheet metal. I have the drawings in CAD so I print out a 1:1 layout as a template. Tape the template to the box and centerpunch the corners and hole centers through the template. If anyone is interested I'll post my drawings.

I've also considered cutting the hole witha 3" cutoff wheel in die grinder. Drill holes at the corners and cut between the holes. Could probably use a Dremel with cutoff wheels. The boxes are pretty thin.

What l like about this setup is the electronics are made up to be a modular plug-in. The only wires coming out are the camera shutter and the battery. As the electronics continue to morph (day/night mode, gain adjustment, change in passband to eliminate falsing) I can build new electronics modules and plug them into the existing boxes.

Last night I finished benchtesting the MS20 with low power mods, timer, optocoupler output, and a walk test LED. I have a PC board layout done to make an add-on board that will hold the timer and opto components. It is the same width as the MS20 board and will mount behind the MS20 board in another set of slots.

One step that's not shown in the photos is the final paint. I assemble everything and put sealant between the box and electronics module. Then I mask the camera holes, PIR Fresnel and walk test LED and camo paint the whole face.

Keith
 

passgas55

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Keith, what I did was to make the hinge independent from the snap latch. I intalled a small piece of angle iron on the box with a hole in it for a lock. Then I knotched the snap latch to fit over the angle iron.You want to keep snap latch working to keep it water proof. Then I knotched one of the hinge faces to fit through the angle iron while the box was snapped and bolted to the top of the cover.Even if you cut the side wire the box will not open. I used a 5" hinge which is the smallest one to use .   Email me if you want pics.
 

SouthernStyle

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If you guys don't mind it would be great if you could post the pics.  I'm getting ready to build my first one and am looking for some different ideas.

Thanks,
Scott
 

SouthernStyle

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David,

I like your setup.  Is that a timer board mounted to the back of the box?  What is your source for the MTL dry boxes?

Scott
 

glen71

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kmitch - I really like the modular electronics idea. One of my biggest frustrations is trying to get my hands inside the box to mount stuff. Pre-mounting it on a plate is a great idea. Wish I was better at electronics.
 

passgas55

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I made a mistake. That is a "MTM Case Guard Sportmans' Drybox" which I got from Academy Sports .The box has a lot of room as you can see which I wanted making my first cam . Comes with a oring type seal on the cover and latches which makes them water tight.That one has been in a swamp area for a year and no water or moisture has gotten in the box. The price is around $9. You can find them on the net but the shipping charges kill you. The board mountd on the back is a one shot 555 timer . Works good.

(Edited by passgas55 at 5:04 pm on July 18, 2002)
 

SouthernStyle

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David,

I appreciate the info.  Can you tell me what type spacers you are using to mount the 555 to the back of the box?  Are they glued on or bolted thru the box?  Where can I find them?

Sorry for all the newbie questions, just trying to get a feel for what works best.

Thanks,
scott
 

passgas55

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Scott, I will give you the correct name of them tomorrow after I look them up in a Newark catalog but I called them stand offs and those use #6 /32 bolts. You can get them at just about any electronics supply and some hardware store. Check with Hag.
Don't worry about asking too many ?s.I have been at it for a year and still ask ?s.Just glad I can add my .01 cent to this group.
 

kmitch

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If the spacers don't need to be insulated I use 1/4" polyethylene tubing, as is used to hook up refrigerator ice makers, with the proper length 6-32machine screw. I get a lifetime supply of spacers at Home Depot for less than $2.

Keith
 


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