Camera problem

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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I JUST BUILT MY FIRST CAM.  I FINISHED EVERYTHING TODAY AND WHEN I TOUCHED THE TWO WIRES LEADING FROM MY CANON SURE SHOT OWL AF I GOT A FLASH AND THOUGHT SUCCESS!!!!  AFTER PLAYING AROUND WITH THIS FOR A WHILE, I DECIDED TO PUT FILM INTO THE CAMERA AND GIVE IT ANOTHER TEST.  THE IR DETECTS MOTION AND THE CAMERA FLASHES APPROPRIATELY, BUT THE FILM ISN'T ADVANCING TO THE NEXT PIC.  WHAT COULD I HAVE DONE WRONG?  I WAS VERY CAREFUL NOT TO OVERHEAT ANYTHING.  THANKS FOR ANY HELP.
 

Richard Webb

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hi SIMPLEARKANSAN, The Owl's flash will work if the film canister is empty, but not if it has rewound. So, it sounds like the film is not loaded, or maybe the sprocket didn't catch? What number is in the LCD Display? If it is "0" then open it up and re-thread the film.
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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OUT OF ABOUT 20-30 FLASHES OF THE CAMERA, IT IS ONLY ON EXPOSURE #4.  SOMETIMES EVERY SINGLE MOVEMENT WILL SET OFF A FLASH AND AT OTHER TIMES YOU CAN ONLY HEAR THE RELAY CLICK.  DO I HAVE A POSSIBLE SHORT SOMEWHERE?  
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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WHAT WOULD THE EFFECT BE IF I DIDN'T GET A GOOD BRIDGE BETWEEN THE 1&2 CONTACTS?
 

Richard Webb

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Sounds like a cold solder joint, so you will have to run a hot iron over it again.  Make sure that the solder on both the wire & the board melt together.
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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SO YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE TWO GOLD CONTACTS OR THE #1 & 2 PINS.  I TOOK SOME #24 AWG SPEAKER WIRE AND TINNED IT AND PLACED IT AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE AND MADE A BRIDGE WITH IT(AS RECOMMENDED BY TINHORN).  IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD.  SO YOU THINK IT'S ONE OF MY TWO CONTACTS?  I'LL DEFINITELY TRY WHATEVER YOU SUGGEST.  THANKS AGAIN.
 

Richard Webb

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My Owl cameras are the "PF" Models, so I will go to Jesse's Page and look at the instructions. While you are in there, I would go over the solder job with a intensity light while looking through a magnifying glass.
 

Richard Webb

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Okay, I'm back.  Put the heat on #2, because that's the Shutter. Do you remember if the Shutter always clicked with the Flash? I don't think so. You will need a little fresh solder on #2 to make it all flow together.
 

robNhood

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Might be a dumb idea, but make sure your batteries are strong in your camera.
 

Richard Webb

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Yes, make sure that #2 is bridged, but as you are holding the iron on on that spot feed some new solder into it. (make everything flow together) You will have to get the board hot enough to melt the solder. And of course, robNhood's suggestion about cheching the batteries is a good one. Also, you could have a bad roll of film, or if the camera was purchased as a close-out, it could have been returned because of being defective?
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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TOOK YOUR ADVICE.  RESOLDERED THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE #1 & 2 CONTACT PINS.  IT'S WORKING LIKE A CHARM.  SET IT OUTSIDETONIGHT TO CATCH A FRIEND THAT WAS ON HIS WAY OVER, AND IT WAS TAKING PICS OF CARS DRIVING BY, PEOPLE WALKING THEIR DOGS ETC.  ALL ABOUT 20 YARDS FROM THE CAMERA.  I DEFINITELY NEED TO NARROW DOWN THE WIDTH OF THE SENSOR, BECAUSE IT IS PICKING UP TOO GOOD, TOO SOON.  THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP.  I'M TAKING IT TO THE WOODS THIS WEEKEND AND WILL POST PICS ASAP.
 

chadwright

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I am using one of the older owl's and it works great when I touch the two wires together.  After wiring it to the board and switches it sometimes only turns the flash "on" like when you only push the button down half way.  If I turn the camera on and off and then take a manual pic with the camera it will start working.  Anyone ever had this problem or have any suggestions?  I'm  lost as to what to do now.

Thanks
Chad
 

Possum

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When you say older OWL's do you mean the one that has the two small push buttons or the one with one dial for the flash settings and auto mode?
 

chadwright

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it is the one with the two small buttons on the lower right hand side.

Chad
 

Possum

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I have experience with only the round dial camera, but experienced the same thing when I was wiring the camera.  I had the wrong two wires touching.  I hope someone else can help you.  Also, I am not sure if this camera will work.  All the OWL's I have heard about are the ones with the round dial or the PF's.
 

h2obobh2o

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I am not an expert by any means, but when I was searching for a camera to use, I read on Jesse's page that if you get an owl AF,with the buttons as you describe, it said that you must test the camera first, turn it on, let it set there for two hours, and then pic it up and try to take a photo. I believe it said there are certain types of camera's of that "era" that need a refresh pulse, or a keep alive pulse. Maybe that is what you are experiencing? I'm sure someone on this board can confirm. Good Luck. Here is what is says....

Canon AF Owl. This is an older model of the Owl camera. The Owl AF camera had 2 versions so be
sure to test the camera to see which version it is. To test the camera, turn it on a let it set for
several hours. After 2 hours, pick up the camera while it's still on and try to take a pic. If the camera
won't work until you turn it off and then back on, it's the early version that goes to sleep and needs
the "On" switch reset. If the camera fires after sitting for 2 hours you have the version that works in
the game cameras here.
 

smendy

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I built tinhorn's 2-stage timer and am having a problem I can't figure out.  I am using the 12V set-up.  When it is turned to the LED, it works properly with the second stage turning off after 2 min, then turning back on for another 2 min when the sensor is triggered.  The problem comes when I switch the thing over to the camera.  The camera will take one picture, but then will not take another when the sensor is triggered again.

I have a drawing on file of how I laid out the board.  Can anyone help, seems like I tried everything 2 or three thousand times.
 
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