Canon case and soldering

Volhunter

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I finally got all my goodies together to do this project. I got the back of the Canon OWL PF case off, but can't figure out how to get the front off. I'm afraid I am going to break it. Is there a trick to it? Also, after looking at where I need to solder to the circuit bourd on the camera, I'm scared I will screw it up! Man, that is a little spot! I don't think I have enough hands to hold the pencil, the wire, and the solder! Is there a trick to this? I have never done any soldering of this type before and its been a long time since I have soldered period. I thought I might go the the local TV repair shop and get some trashed circuit boards to practice on. Any thoughts or pointers would be appreciated. By the way, I have already looked at the "how to" sites on soldering, but they are pretty generic and don't really address this type of connection or the bridging...especially for a rookie like me. Am I in over my head?
 

NC Bowhunter

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When I started this project, it was the first time I had soldered anything, so I was a true rookie also.  I just took my time, and was as careful as possible, and I've managed to wire two Owl PFs properly, so I'm sure you can as well.

I was also a bit timid when removing the case.  First make sure there isn't a screw that you missed (I believe you need to get the screw on the left side where the film is loaded to remove the front cover.  It's the one behind the spool, not the other two.)  Once all the screws are out, just work your way around slowly prying it out until it works loose.

As for the soldering, it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be once I practiced a little.  I probably didn't do the best job to start with, but it worked properly.  A little practice on some old circuit boards would probably be a good idea.  Also, it's also a lot easier to get to, once the front cover is removed.

I hope this helps you, and good luck with your camera.
 

BowDoc

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I missed that screw inside the case to by the spool
 

spectr17

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There is no need to take the front case off. First remove the two screws by where the handstrap goes on the right side of the camera, remove one screw by the battery door and the screw on the back cover in the upper left. Once you get those 4 screws off the gray back cover can be removed, it sometimes helps to open the film loading door to get the back cover off.

After you get the back cover off, you can slide the pic number indicator and button assembly off by pushing it towards the back of the camera. Once you get this assembly off you have access to all the contacts you need.

I would practice my soldering on some other boards before I attempted to solder the Owl PF board.
 

Tinhorn

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Soldering to Camera PC Boards:

Be sure and use good, flexable "Stranded" wire, not solid, the solid will break too easily from bending.

The easiest way to solder it to the the camera is to strip back the wire about 1/8", lightly twist the strands together and "Tin" the wire with solder.  Just melt some solder onto the wire's bare end, don't mess with the camera yet.  You want the solder to flow into the strands and look nice and shiny.  You don't need much solder on the wire, the strands should be easily visible thru the solder.

When the wire is tinned, you are done with the solder!

Once the wire is tinned, cut off the stripped end so the soldered end is about 1/16" long.  The reason you made the bare end a little long is because usually a blob of solder is left at the very tip.  You don't want this excess solder on the wire.

Don't forget, once the wire is tinned, you are "Done" with the solder!

Now, get the camera ready to be soldered and hold the tinned end of the wire on the existing solder on the cam Board.  Place the soldering iron on the joint until the solder melts and you are done....

One thing you might do is put a solder bridge across the 2 points on the camera board that need to be shorted (connected together) before soldering on the wire.  Then do as above.   I usually bend the tinned wire 90 degrees and just solder it across the 2 pins, one way is as easy as the other (at least for me)

and when you think you're a good solder-er.....try soldering 2 pieces of solder together....

"Tin"-horn
 

gizz

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I think HornTin is losing it! Can you really solder two pieces of solder together? :ideablue

Listen to these guys and listen well cause they know what they're talking about. Very good idea to practice on something a little though. Just about everything has a board of some type in it. Old broken remotes, some of the kids toys - look around and you should be able to find something.

My biggest problem at first was to heat up things too much. This can actually cause the solder to NOT stick and it'll pop and crackle. If you get results like this then the your putting too much heat on it for too long. Let the pencil heat up for about 10 mins or so and I found that a second or two of contact on the joint and the solder takes well. Good Luck and have fun - Oh and you can get a little high from the flux smoke!:crazeye

(Edited by gizz at 8:49 pm on Aug. 2, 2001)
 

Richard Webb

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Hi Volhunter - This is risky as best, but pin #5 wire can be soldered to a spot on the PFs circuit board leaving more room between pins #4 and #6 up at the edge connector. Also, the full rubber bumper on the bottom of the Shutter Button holds #5 wire firm against the circuit board when assembled. But, in order to help this risky solder job I drilled a hole directly above the side Strap Holder at the top of the case, and brought the solid old style <solid> phone wire straight out through the hole, and then down at a right angle through the Strap Holes. (pre-bent & secure before I soldered it to the spot on the circuit board) For Pins #4 and #6 I still pre-bent the solid wire to fit (exactly!) up under the front flange, and pointing them in towards the circuit board (before) I soldered them with a pointed solder iron. These 2 wires were also pre-bent exactly to exit through the same hole as Pin #5 wire, and down through the Strap Holder. I have a (RS 274-245) 3-Conductor Phone Jack hanging off the bottom of the Owl. After doing 3 of the Owl PFs I wouldn't think of using another method. It was fast & painless, plus all of the automated functions of the Owl PF will still work when not connected to the PIR Sensor.
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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TINHORN, ARE YOU SAYING THAT ONCE THE WIRE IS TINNED, YOU CUT OFF THE END AND PLACE THE EXISTING WIRE ON THE CAMERA BOARD AND HEAT THE BOARD AND WIRE UNTIL THAT SOLDER MELTS?  SO DON'T ADD ANY MORE SOLDER TO MAKE THE JOINT?  I'M PREPARING TO MAKE MY FIRST CAM AND HAVE NO SOLDERING EXPERIENCE, SO ANY POINTERS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
 

Tinhorn

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SIMPLEARKANSAN

You Got It ! ! !

You don't cut off "all" the stripped and tinned end, just cut it back some, to about a 1/16"

***********************************

Gizz

Just Showing OFf - It can be done ! ! !

 

spectr17

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Here's some pics on how to solder the Owl PF. This is a 3 wire setup that runs to a stereo submini (2.5mm) phono jack on the back of the camera. Submini jacks and plugs are available at Radio Shack. Use #26 AWG standed wire or smaller. 3 wires allow you to use the camera independantly of your game camera housing sensor. If you don't need this feature, jumper #5 and #6 and just run one wire from those contacts and 1 wire from the common trace to a mono submini jack.





 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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TINHORN, THIS IS ANOTHER QUESTION THAT IS PROBABLY VERY STUPID, BUT I THOUGHT NO HARM IN ASKING.  ON JESSE'S DIRECTIONS UNDER THE RED WALK TEST LIGHT.  IT SAYS THE BLACK WIRE GOES TO NEGATIVE AND THE RED WIRE TO PIN #14 ON THE IC OF THE REGENT MS CIRCUIT BOARD.  MY QUESTION IS WHERE IS NEGATIVE?  DOES THE LED COME WITH BLACK/RED WIRES COMING FROM IT?  THANKS AGAIN FOR EVERYONES HELP.
 

spectr17

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SA,

The LED comes with a red and black wire on it. The black LED wire goes to negative which is the same place your negative battery power is connected. The red LED wire goes to pin #14 of the IC chip.
 

Volhunter

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Thanks everybody, this is great information. I'll let you know how it turns out!
 

dharter

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On the canon owl pf, is the autofocus/flash contact on the circuit board  used to refresh the camera?
So if I want to periodically refresh the camera so that it will take a picture with minimum delay, do I short the refresh wire with the common wire?
 
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