Complete Assembled Timer Board

Brian

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I have had a lot of requests for a complete timer board so I have designed one and tested it.  This board is designed for the RS sensor and the MS20 with Tinhorns modifications detailed in the document on my chip.  

If there are enough people who want the completed board then I will pursue making them available.

This board would include everything for my 8 pin chip except the pushbuttons and the camera connectors to the board.  I will have solder pads for power, gnd, PIR trigger, two pads for each push button and a three pads for the camera. (common, refresh, and shutter)  I will try to get a picture together of the completed board with some explanation of where to connect what.
This completed board will also work with a digital as long as you use the RS sensor or MS20 sensor and a digital chip.  The only difference will be a jumper for the connections to the camera and the digital chip.

I will sell the boards for $36 complete with shipping.

If you want one let me know.

I prefer to just send the chips but I get a lot of questions for a complete board and a lot of people are not familar with electronics so this might help them out.


(Edited by Brian at 10:43 am on Feb. 13, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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36 bucks !  Wow,  you'll be working for peanuts, or is that a typo?.......

That's a good deal

I assume you're etching your own PC boards, What about selling the chip and an Etched Board only?

Just think how this project has evolved, now we got on board computer chips.......

Mmm  m  mmmmmmmm

Tinhorn
 

Brian

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Not a typo but I would accept more money.

I was kind of hoping only the people who were electrically challenged would use this but anybody can.  I answer so many questions on connections and what not I figured I would etch the board and make the connections simple.
I do etch my own boards so this will speed up the process quite a bit.  I have a tank now that can etch a 6 x 9 board in 4 minutes.  The longest part is drilling the holes (that is what the wife is for )
and placing the components.  I am hoping to make enough to pay for the components and materials.  I am not trying to make a killing just make this stuff available.

The only way I could save any significant time would be if I did not drill the board so I would probably keep the price the same unless I didn't have to drill the board and then it would be to your advantage to let me do it.  I will test it to make sure it works.
 

Archilochus

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Hi Brian,
Think I might have mentioned this before - can't remember much these days :{
Anyway - you can save most of your drilling time by using surface mount parts.  Just use the larger packages like 1206 for chip resistors and caps, SOT-89 for regs & transistors - the larger sizes are fairly easy to handle.
I think?? you can even get surface mount chip carriers.

Archilochus
 

Brian

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Arch,

I am using some surface mount I just haven't went all the way with it yet.  My biggest problem is with the SO-8 chips.  I don't know if I can quite solder to them.  I will give them a try though.  I use the optos and transistor surface mount now.  Thanks for the tips I will eventually go with all surface mount.
 

SIMPLEARKANSAN

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Brian, is it possible that you will have any completed timers for the ms20 in the future?
 

Tinhorn

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On the Boards and chips alone, I just thought maybe some of the  guys could build their own if they had a board and a pictorial to go by.  It mite save you some assembly work

On the MS20 thing, S-A,  It won't be that big a deal to modify the MS20 and make it work too.  I just modified one today and it seems to be working just fine.....more to follow......

Tinhorn
 

Brian

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As far as the MS20 thing.  Tinhorn has been helping me with it.  I am relying on Tinhorn to work out the details on wiring it up.  After he figures out the details I will probably supply a board that will work with it as well but for now all I have is the board for the RS sensor.
I etched some last night.  They are 1 in X 1.7 inches.  I will have a pictured document to give once I get through building them and testing them and making the document with pictures. :)

Brian
 

Brian

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Tinhorn finished the modifications to the MS20 so it will work with my board.  So if anyone needs one for the MS20 I will have some.  You will have to modify the MS20 per Tinhorn's instructions which I have in my document for the 8 pin chip.
Thanks again to Tinhorn and all his efforts.
 

Stever

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Brian great job!
Can you tell me in laymans terms what this board does. Don't mean to sound dumb but is it more than an adjustable timer?
 

Brian

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Stever,

Yes it is more than an adjustable timer.  It is a stand alone chip that will take the PIR trigger and control all the functions for the camera.
1.refresh
2.picture count with count retention if powered off.
3.delays between pictures
4.38 count feature
5.test mode
6.security
7.Both  35mm and Digital control depending on chip

It is a whole lot more than just a timer.  I have optos soldered to the board for controlling the camera functions which saves battery power.  Each opto only draws 300 or so uA max while operating a camera function compared to the 20 to 40 mA used by most relays (Thanks Arch).

I have posted a detail listing of the functions of the chip on Jesse's site if you need detail on the functions.

http://www.jesseshuntingpage.com/cgi-bin/i...&topic=1765
 

Brian

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I have a document for the etched board ready for ya'll to look at if someone wants to see what they look like.
 

jayber

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I'd love to see a pic of one!  And how much for an etched board & chip alone for use with an MS-20, not soldered or holes drilled? Does the BOM listed by ArkansasElkHunter in http://www.jesseshuntingpage.com/cgi-bin/i...&topic=1765 still hold true?  And did I understand that right, when you send the 8-pin chip you'll include documentation on it as well as how to modify the MS-20 per Tinhorn?
 

Brian

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Jayber,

I will send you all the documentation on the chip and the board.
The BOM is almost correct.  I added the jumper for being able to use a digital or 35MM camera with the same board but other than that it is pretty close.  Also, Yes on the MS-20 stuff.  If you modify the MS20 per Tinhorn's instructions then my board will work and you can leave out the amplifier/inverter transistor with the two 10K resistors.

I don't think I am going to sell the boards undrilled and soldered.  I prefer to test them to make sure they work.  You never know when a land will be eat through during the etching process and I prefer to make sure you get a good working board then take a chance on something being wrong with the board.

I will send you both the chip document and the document on the board.
 

Brian

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I have updated my document on the wiring for the optos and the details of how I use the jumpers to use a 35mm and a digital with the same layout.

If you want a copy of the latest manual let me know and I can email it to you.
 

Brian

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davered1,

I sent it out to you this morning.  I included all the 35MManual and the completed board because the 35MManual has all the details for hooking up the RS sensor and MS20 sensor and optos.

Thanks
 

kmitch

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I would like the info also. I've been using the MS20 sensors with Fuji Discovery 90 cameras. The Fuji is pretty simple to modify and cheap but has a weak flash. I'm going to try a remote slave flash as soon as I can get one assembled.

To save you the trouble of responding to multiple request would it make sense to post it on a website? Just a suggestion.

I'm sure everyone appreciates your work in developing this.

Keith
 

Brian

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kmitch,

I will send it to you.

I tried posting it on my website for downloading but I couldn't get it work right.  I haven't given up on doing that totally but I am working on it until then i have to just email to everyone.
I need your email address so I can send it to you.



(Edited by Brian at 10:09 am on Feb. 22, 2002)
 

coyotebandit

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Brian,
I can convert it to Adobe PDF for you if you are interested. I could even find a place to post it if you need one?

CB
 


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