Crunch time, problem #3

dalliwacker

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Hopefully this is my final question, and I won't have to pester you guys any longer and possibly can start posting some bear pics.  I've looked at all the homebrew cams posted here and I must say there are some fantastic looking cameras.  One thing I have noticed with most of the here are they have two and sometimes three switches on the box.  Why so many switches?  Am I missing something, because if I can get my single switch to work (see problem #1) between the LED light and sensor, then I shouldn't have any more switches.  Am i correct on this.  How about a switch for the timer (see problem #2), would I need a switch for this one also?  Regards, Jim
 

cedar N sandy

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I use 3 switches.... motion detector, LED light, and camera...... here's why.
While transporting my cam and setting it up on a tree in the woods all switches are OFF.
Once I have set it up I am ready to test it....then I switch the motion detector ON and the LED ON. I wait for the LED light to go out then I walk out in front of my cam where I am expecting the animal to be. If the LED lights up I am set.
I then walk around behind my cam and switch the LED OFF and the camera ON. Set up is complete and I leave the area (without taking my own pic hopefully :) )
I found that you must at least seperate the camera and the motion detector with seperate switchs or a pic will be taken every time you switch the m/d on. The m/d must reset each time it is turned ON...... it takes several seconds to do this. The switch for the LED saves juice for extended battery life and the animals don't have a chance to spot the little red light.      
 

Tinhorn

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dalliwacker

Unless you want to waste a pix at turn on every time, you will have to have a minimum of TWO switches, because the MS20 will trigger when power volts is applied to it......
 

SWAMPFOOT

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DALLIWACKER-
I ONLY USE 1 SWITCH ON MY BOXES I USE A SPST SWITCH HOOKED TO WHERE THE MS20 ATTACHES TO THE CAMERA WIRES. I PUT MY CAMERA WHERE I WANT IT THEN PUT BATTERIES AND FILM IN CAMERA AND SENSOR. WHILE DOING THIS I LEAVE MY SWITCH ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOX IN THE OFF POSITION.  WHEN I GET IT SET RIGHT(CAMERA INSIDE HOUSING) I THEN STEP TO SIDE OF UNIT AWAY FROM SENSOR GIVE IT APPROX 5-10 SECS TO RESET THEN I FLIP MY SWITCH ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE UNIT. AND SHES READY TO FIRE.  I DONT USE A LED I KNOW HOW TO SET IT UP W/OUT THE LED.
IT WORKS FOR ME.
 

dalliwacker

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It sounds as if I need to make a switch for the camera, this would give me two switches and prevent the camera from taking pics while setting the cam up.  I have a quick disconnect for the MS20 and camera.  Before I go tampering with anything I just want to make sure I should route the on/off switch in on the wire leading off of the MS20 into the mono jack for the camera.

(Edited by dalliwacker at 12:23 am on April 17, 2001)
 

Tinhorn

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Since you are using a timer, I'd put it at the camera, the timer may energize at turn on too
 

dalliwacker

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Tinhorn

Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of having a quick disconnect for the camera?  If I wire in a switch to the camera, the camera would be more or less permanantly attached to the ammo can I am using as a housing.
 

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