finished another game camera- nontypical

dharter

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Take a look at my new game camera.  I still have to field test it, but it should at least work in the daytime.
http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/dharter/index.html

My next one will be with an OWL PF date and WITHOUT  a solenoid.  For the OWL PF the location of the solenoid is criitical.  There is not much room for error.  My 1st camera was an owl pf date with a solenoid.
 



Richard Webb

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Hi dharter - It looks good. The sides of my ammo cans pop in & out with a bong, and sealing off the flash was tricky. Is your solenoid noisy?
 

dharter

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I had read on this forum that with an ammo can when you drill the hole out you should back it up with a piece of wood otherwise, you bend the metal and  get a bong.  I use ratchet webbing straps to mount the ammo can to the tree.  If you tighten it up too much, the ammo can will bend.

The motor on my camera is somewhat noisy.  That may change once I put it inside.  The solenoid is less noisy than that.  The heavy duty relay makes a clilck also.  Wiirng directly the owl PF contacts 4,5, and 6 has the advantage of less noise.
 

Coal30

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Looks nice Good Job


(Edited by Coal30 at 10:19 pm on Aug. 24, 2001)


(Edited by Coal30 at 10:19 pm on Aug. 24, 2001)
 

Possum

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Nice work.  The cam looks good.  The ammo can will pop in and out if you don't put a block of wood (or supporting structure) inside as you drill.  While I am writing this I am thinking the smaller width ammo cans may be more susceptible to this bending than the larger diameter cans?  I don't know.  My second cam used the large can and I did not have this trouble.  I like the tripod support at the bottom of the can.  An ingenious way to support the cam in the field with no trees around.
 

dharter

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That is a good idead a tripod mount.  I was referring to the tripod screw hole on the bottom of many cameras inlcuding the owl pf date.  The bolt on the bottom of the ammo can was used to mount the camera inside the ammo can.  Inside the can you can put some sponges to keep it from swinging away from the camera window.  At at $1.00 store you can get some sponges, b ut they may not be needed if the nut is tghtened enough to the bottom of the ammo can.  The size ammo can that I used was 7.62mm.  The radio shack led stuck out too far and made it hard to fit things in.  I had to slide the battery in the side after removing the solenoid bracket.  The switch is a DPDT . When it is up the LED works. When it is down the solenoid and light work.  I have solderless connectors that connect to the battery.  When I want to turn it off, I just unplug them.  The light can also be disconnected.  I think that I found that light connector in radio shack.  I had to carefully rotate the contacts on the light 90 degress though.  Adding a fuse would probably be a good idea in case there is a short on the light's wires.
 

dharter

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 I just fixed a problem with it.  The leads on the transistor could not take much movement and one broke off.  I cut a piece of plastic off a plastic electrical box.  I then superglued the heavy duty relay, relay diode, resistor, and some leads to the plastic board.  Then I resoldered everything and it works again.  There won't be as much stress on wire leads now when I am replacing film and batteries.  Also I found out in this forum that stranded wire is better for the same reason.
 When I build my next ammo can camera I am going to use an owl pf date, mount it on a bracket near the top of the can so that you can see the picture counter in a window, wire 3 wires to the camera and use a refresh circuit.
 

dharter

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I just had my first field test with this camera.  In two  weeks it took about 5 pictures on a deer trail.  It had stopped working when I checked it.  When I brought it back I found out that the 5A-H battery was dead.  I am still investigating why this happened.  A animal may have kept the retriggering the ms20 or the light draws much more current than I had estimated.  I will see if I can find some data on the headlight.
 


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