fried camera

d91

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I pulled a camera last week to discover that one of my connections had worked loose (pin4)... last night I tried to fix it. I was in a hurry because I am leaving this afternoon to hunt and head home for the holiday. Well, I couldn't find my small iron so I opted to 'ginger' my way through with a large one. Of course, I ended up pulling the pin and about 1/8" of the gold plate up from the circuit board. Frustration and hurry get you nowhere.

Anyone want to buy a parts camera?
 



Tinhorn

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I discovered a while back that Pin 4 is also connected to the Lens Cover on/off switch so all may not be lost

Open up the camera and remove the front cover to expose the front of the camera.  Look for the Lens Cover Switch, it's a set of contacts down near the Lens.

The contact nearest the lens is connected to Pin4 so you can either run the wire that was suspose to go to pin 4 down to that solder joint at the end of the leaf spring or jumper that place up to a good part of the trace near where it was damaged......

Don't forget to "Close" the Lens Cover Door on the plastic housing before re-assembly or the  on/off contacts may get bent!

Good Luck!

Tinhorn
 

d91

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Tinhorn, you the man. Now, I hope my wife don't find out because I have already told her that I needed to get another camera because I cooked this one.... shhhhhhhhhh,
 

russ

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Hello all,
  If I learned one major point doing these cams is not to get in a hurry.I been lucky I only burnt up 1 cam since I started building.It was one I got at a Pawn Shop for 10 dollars,but a trashed cam still hurts.Also got in a hurry and turned my templete around,cut holes backwards in my box.So now I always try to take my time and do it right the first time.
 Helpful hint for anyone that plans on makeing alot of cams.I made a metal box with all my hole locations precut,its a little larger than the cam encloser.So now all I have to do is slide my cam encloser into my metal templete box.5 miniuts my cam box is done with perfect holes locations.It takes some time to make a metal templete,but eassier to use than a cardboard templete.
 

Archilochus

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Hey Tinhorn....
How'd you figure THAT out?????

Any other easy connection points for the other wires??

Archilochus
 

Tinhorn

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Archy

Just a lucky guess on Pin 4.  I was modifying a cam to try the On/Off contacts for the refresh pulse instead of the half-press and wondered if the Pin 4 trace went to the switch, since it's a "Common", checked resistance between these 2 points and low and behold,  ZERO!

(Usually the luck I have means I measured the resistance of 110VAC but somehow my (our) luck was reversed this time)

Anyway, NOTHING on pins 5 & 6 tho, don't know where they mite go   :(     ******* YET ********

and so far I've not built the circuit for using refresh pulse on the on/off switch, maybe this w/e.  I'm sure it will work but not sure of advantage.  RS don't sell a reed relay with N/C contacts too bad.......

Tinhorn
 

bradjenkins

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This may be a stupid question that has been addressed in detail, but does anybody know why we solder the bridge between pins 5 and 6. Is this neccessary for the camera to work correctly?
 

Archilochus

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Tinhorn....Thanks for the info... Try the Rat Shack part #275-005 - 7-9VDC 500ohm SPDT relay.

Brad .... The bridge between 5&6 simulates the closure of the "1/2 shutter" and "full shutter" press positions (Owl PF)  It *IS* required for the '2-wire' shutter wiring method.  See Jesses' home-brew camera pages for more info.

Archilochus
 

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