HEY HAMILTOE

knothead

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on the LED is the long lead or the short lead the pos.   thanks


(Edited by knothead at 5:49 pm on Jan. 19, 2002)
 



knothead

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THANKS,
  i take it that is a standard among polarity sensitive components.
 

BULL MOOSE

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How do you make the copper lead lines on the board that connect the parts?
 

hamiltoe

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I layed out the board in a CAD program, then I print out a reverse image on a mask, use special circuit board material that is light sensitive with a masking material, expose the ciruit board, then etch &  drill them.  You have to invest in the right equipment to do it efficiently.
 

BULL MOOSE

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Still confused? Are you saying that the board is already prepared? The "etching" (on your bottom view) which connects each part to carry the electricity is already on the board?In other words, all I would have to do with the $10 board and parts is to simply place them in the correct holes (your top view) and solder them in place.

If this is the case, I think that anyone can handle that. I can solder parts in place and remove them when necessary.

This may be a no-brainer question, but your pictures of the completed board (top view) do not have any printed lines, your name on side, etc.

(Edited by BULL MOOSE at 9:08 am on Jan. 25, 2002)
 

knothead

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BULLMOOSE;
 its like putting a model togather. the board is ready for components.and the diagrahm shows where they go.it took me 1 hour and 40 min. to assemble all parts, and the template he send for mounting made that about a 5 min job
 

sven

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Bull Moose,

That's all there is to it for us.  Hamiltoe has done all the dificult work of laying out the circuit and transferring it to the board.  The metal etchings are on the bottom side of the board.  You stick the components thru from the top and solder to the bottom.


Hamiltoe,

If I'm reading your circuit diagram correctly the LED  is always in operation, correct?  In other words, there isn't a test mode and a camera mode where you can shut off the LED.  If this is the case I will probably use a DPDT switch when wiring the camera disable, and wire one side for the camera and the other side for the LED.

(Never mind on the above question.  I just read Monsterbuck's post on the same question.)

(Edited by sven at 7:13 am on Jan. 25, 2002)
 

BULL MOOSE

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Sven,
Thanks. The "metal etchings" was exactly what I needed to know. I will reread some of the stuff and probably buy two kits, two pelican cases, and 1 PF Owl. It should be a piece of cake.

Of course, I just bought two RS's before Christmas.But from what I think that I have read, this seems to be the best deal going. Am I right?
 

hamiltoe

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Everyone,
When I finally get all of the parts in, I plan to also sell the total electronic kit.  This would include the circuit board and electronic components, PIR/lens along with instructions, etc.  I plan on selling the kits for $40.00 plus shipping.  I have most of the parts in except the PIR's and lens.

This is not a bad deal because if you consider the shipping costs from Radio Shack and GLOLAB, the cost will be pretty close.  You also get the convenience of ordering from 1 person.  
 


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