How exciting!!

Bowfever

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First thanks to all who posted in the "be honest" thread.  I was lucky enough to find a cam on the clearance rack at the local wally world for 39.00..  Two questions for all of you.  On Jesse's page for the three wire config there are two pictures but they have the wires labeled different and are soldered in different places ie: some of them directly on the pins and some appear to be on the gold traces???  Could a guy just solder three wires one each on pins 4, 5 & 6??  Second it shows using telephone cord, is this the easiest and most popular to use??

Thanks for any and all help..
Bowfever
 

Passthru

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 I started to solder to the pins so i could use the camera outside of a trail cam but the pins are very close so i just soldered the 2 wires to the gold traces,and then i will get a button from Radio Shack  to plug into the wires from the camera,this way its still useable.
 
 

Archilochus

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Hi Bowfever,
The purpose of using the "three wire" method is to retain all the cameras features that are activated by the 1/2 shutter press - see cam owners manual.  If you solder to the gold traces, then you have to remove the cams original shutter button and you lose the 1/2 shutter press option (at least when using the cam removed from the trail cam housing)
So if you would like to retain full camera function when removed from the trail cam housing, you'll need to solder your 3 wires to the pins #4, 5, & 6 which allows you to re-install the original cam shutter button.

Telephone cable is cheap and readily available, but it's a bit stiff and breaks easier than other types of wire.  I like to use the cable from a dead computer mouse - very flexible.

Good Luck!,
Archilochus
 

ONESHOT

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I soldered my camera just like the 3rd photo under the 3 wire instructions for modifying the Cannon OWL PF camera (The photo just above the "Testing the Camera" section).  

The #5 shutter wire, soldered as shown in the photo, did pose a slight problem but I simply trimmed some rubber off the bottom side of the shutter switch so I could re-install the factory shutter button.  Works great either in my game camera or alone.

The 4, 5 and 6 pins are so close it looked almost impossible (at least for a soldering novice like me) to solder a wire to each pin without the solder shorting out two adjacent pins.

ZIP tip:  I brought phone cord out of the side of the camera and attached it to a male mini stereo jack.  I used hot glue around the camera exit hole and a ZIP TIE to secure the phone wire to the place where the camera strap was attached.  The ZIP TIE is the key as this serves as a stress relief.  As I move the external phone cord, the internal wires WILL NOT MOVE.

Arch - Thanks for the tip on the computer mouse cable.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!
 

Archilochus

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Hi ONESHOT,
I'll have to try soldering the #5 wire to the gold spot - sure would be a LOT easier than dealing those little pins. I never tried that way before because it looked like the original button wouldn't work with the wire in the way - but if its workin' for you.....


Archilochus
 

Possum

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When you guys are talking about telephone wire are you talkking about solid wire?  i use a telephone cord with mult-stranded wire and twist the ends really tight.  Then I tin the wire with solder and cut it with scissors down to about 1/16".  Then I barely touch the iron to the top of the wire while sitting it on top of the pins.   Also, use a new iron tip with a sharp point.   Wired the first one (PF) in about 5 minutes today.  I like the multi-strand tele wire.
But, you do not need caffeine before you try those little pins.

I could not find a jack small enough to fit so I took the wires out the side of the cam and used the stereo jack and plug.  
 

Bowfever

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Hey thanks all!!  I have successfully finished soldering my cam and PIR YIPPEEE!!  My initial tests proved positive.  I however have a little glitch with the camera not wanting to fire every time. I noticed in jesse's page that there was some trouble with wiring the relay off of the #2 pin on PIR??  My led light works flawlessly everytime I move in front of the sensor..  My question is can I move the wire from the #2 pin to the red wire of the led light before the switch of course???  Will this work??  The other problem that I had was I could not get the silver front off of the camera?? I was able to do it without but would have been nice to have it off.  I think that I had all of the screws out...  I wired it per the picture on jesse's sight that had a wire on pin 4 & 6 and then the gold dot just below center right of the button..  Worked like a charm!!  put button back in and everything works...  Sorry for the rambling but what can I say I am EXCITED!!!
PS:  I used an old cig lighter adapter for an old cell phone, as the cord on my camera..  worked great..  want to try the mouse cord next.

Bowfever  :bounce-green:
 

Possum

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Did you get the screw inside the camera where the film winds as you take pictures.  That's the one I always forget.  The voltage coming from the speaker wire is raw 9 volts.  I believe you could use the 5v relay and get by.  It will "sing" when it closes because of the voltage.  I don't know if it will burn it up over time.  You could always use a 9 volt relay there, too.  

The case will come all the way off.  I did not want to do it, but had to.  The pins are way too small for me.  I found the best way was to pull the film loading side out first and then the side with the film door latch would come out easier.  Don't be afraid to bend the body a little to get it to start.  Just be careful.
 

Bowfever

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First off, Possum, no I did not get that screw out so that probably solves that problem.. Thanks!  Second, Boy is my face red...  I was setting here looking at the my "project" and bingo there it is right in front of me.  I had the #4 pin and the #5 pin tied together instead of the #5 & #6.  You can imagine my camera was doing funny things.. Anyway I think all the bugs are out (knocking on wood!!).  I need to get this creation into a box and into the woods and put it to work!!!

Bowfever
 

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