It Won't Work!

bradjenkins

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I am having a problem.  When everything is connected, my LED test light works fine, but my camera never works.  When I test the camera directly, it works fine.   I think it may be a problem with my relay??  Is there a way to test the relay to see if it is working? Any suggestions would be very welcome.  I'm very frustrated!!
 

StringShooter

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What type of pir are you using?

In certain situations with the RS pir, you may need to reverse the wires around that come from your camera to the ends of the relay.


(Edited by StringShooter at 11:12 am on Dec. 8, 2001)
 

Passthru

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 Make sure the wires are connected to you mini jack correctly
 

bradjenkins

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I tried switching the wire to the camera from the RS PIR and nothing changed.  I am not using a mini-jack so I appredciate the tip but unfortunately, thats not the problem.  Any other suggestions?
 

bradjenkins

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Also wanted to let everyone know,  if you are in Misssissippi or near a location in MS the has a Hudson's Salvage Store, I was able to get my  Canon Sure Shot PF OWL there for $28.00.  They did have more at the location where I got mine.
 

StringShooter

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You did say that when you touch your camera wires together it activates, right? Then your camera is functioning normally.

If you haven't done so already, retrace your steps and make sure your connections are good.

Is your 9vdc battery strong? It is getting juice to your test light but not activating the camera?

Did you hook the relay to the speaker wires or to the RS pir?

If you hooked directly to the pir, try hooking to the speaker wires instead. Sometimes the relay will not trip when hooked to the circuit board so try the speaker wires instead.
 

bradjenkins

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I did say that the camera was functioning correctly.

The test LED is also appearing to light up brightly, so I am pretty sure my battery is strong.  It is a rechargable battery out of a Coleman rechargable flourescent lantern.  

I did however hook my relay directly to the PIR circuit board, but it appears to have good connections.

Is there a way to test the relay with a multimeter to see if it is functional?
 

StringShooter

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Without doing any damage to the pir by removing your wires, I would try hooking to the speaker wires and see if that cures your problem.

I'm not sure on how to test that relay other than by replacing it and seeing if that helps.

Quote from Jesses Home Brew Camera Page:

Some people have reported that using IC pin #2 sometimes doesn't trip their 5 vdc relay. If you have this problem, wire the 5 vdc relay coil to the red and black speaker wires, just like the LED. Hook the N.O. (normally open) contacts of the 5 vdc reed relay to the camera through a switch.


(Edited by StringShooter at 11:51 am on Dec. 8, 2001)
 

bradjenkins

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The solder did over run on contact 2.  Is there any way to correct this?  

I just removed my relay,but if I can correct the problem, I would prefer to leave the relay attached to the board.
 

StringShooter

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You need to be careful so not to damage the trace wires on the board. You can buy a desolder bulb I think it's called. You can suck up that solder around the connection of point 1 & 2 and you can re-solder and clean it up.

Be very careful though.

(Edited by StringShooter at 12:19 pm on Dec. 8, 2001)
 

bradjenkins

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The excess solder only touched the contact that is less then 1 mm away from #2.  It appears to be coonected anyway.  Do you still think that may be my problem.  The sold er was not running all the way to the #1 contact on the relay.
 

StringShooter

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If they are not connected then your o.k. I would try the speaker wire connection though to see if that makes it trip the camera.

Thats about all I can do to help you.

There are others that may have a better solution than I can offer at this time.

(Edited by StringShooter at 12:26 pm on Dec. 8, 2001)
 

bradjenkins

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Think I found the problem,  the battery I am usinf is 6 vdc.  Big rechargable battery(physical size).  Not enough juice though!  When I Hook up to a 12 vdc converter--you know the kind you plug into ac outlet and it converts to 12 vdc 500mA, it works fine.  Any recommendations as to where and can get an affordable power source?
 

bradjenkins

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Thanks for the advice, StringShooter,  all this tal;k about big rechargable batteries had me off on a tangent!  The 9 vdc works great and takes up a lot less space.

Does anybody know what voltage you get if you wire the leads from 2 9 vdc batteries together?  Is it still 9 vdc w/ more amps or is it more voltage?
 

davered1

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bradjenkins,

You don't need to run any more than 1 good 9V battery.i have 4 cams in bush all the time and have never gotten less than 2 months from a single battery.

running 2 just complicates things
 

Passthru

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 Same here,i use the 9vdc batterys with no problem,but i keep 3 extras in my back pack along with film.  2 months and replaced 1 battery.
 

Tinhorn

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Soldering Hints:

De-Soldering
Go to Radio Shack and purchase some "Solder Wick"  get a small width, like .1" (because it takes a lot of heat for this stuff to work properly)

to remove solder (either so a component can be removed or you used TOO much Solder:

lay the end of the wick on the solder and heat with your solder iron, the solder will melt and soak up into the wick.....

NOTEs  your solder iron needs to be at MAX temp
         Cut the wick end that's solder soaked off

Adding Wires to PC Boards (not new boards but when working with PIR's, Cams, etc)

use Stranded wire if there is going to be much movement.  Skin back the wire and lightly Twist the strands together, then "Tin" the wire with solder.  It should soak in and not be Blobbed on the wire.  May need to snip off some of the tinned wire to get the proper length or remove a solder "drip"

Now, you are <DONE> with the solder,  lay the tinned wire on the existing solder joint on the PC Board and melt the solder together with your iron....

Your Done......    Easy Huh!

Tinhorn
 

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