The next camera I build is going to have a JoeD timer. I was wondering if I should mount the monetary push button switch and LED on the inside or on the outside of the encloser. How are you guys doing it? Thanks Homer
I've got mine on the outside but never did find any weather proof rubber boots for the switches. They are so cheap from RS, somebody said he planned on replacing them as they go bad so I guess I will too
but I think ****** got some in.
I put them on the outside because my membrain is so bad, I would forget to set the modes, etc before tying the dumb things on the tree!
I put all of my switches on the outside, but like most have said, I haven't been able to find a rubber boot large enough to fit the "large" M.O. push button switches from RS. I wish I would have mounted them on the inside, making a totally dry box. I have used some silicon around the threads, and haven't experienced problems thus far, but it's just a matter of time.
I initially put most of the switched on the outside. But then I started putting everything but the Camera Mode/ Test mode switch on the inside. Mine are set up so I can open the door while it's strapped to the tree, and change the timer mode, or hit the count button without the camera falling out. I did discover a good method to make waterproof momentary switched though, I stole the Idea from the laser sight on my pellet gun. It involves using the larger size tactile pushbutton switches, cutting off two of the 4 leads, and covering the whole thing with heatshrink. I will try to post a picture to make it easier to understand.
Dave Do you have a part # for that toggle switch? Is it the same as the RS DPDT mom. switch #900-8572 or is it a SPST switch. I think I'm going to mount it on the outside if I can use a toggle type switch with a rubber cover. I would like to thank everybody for your input. if I ever get it built I'll post a pic of it. Thanks Homer.
If he has lengthened the refresh time to 2.5 hours then just buy a chip from him. you can build the board yourself with a small board and a 1 k resistor,led, a toggle switch(mom on) , some wire and a optocoupler, very basic and easy to build. I like brians chip options better for the digitals though (quicker to set delays,your own times, and you can reset the count with the push of a button,double pic mode can be reset with he push of a button to, joes has to be powered down completely to reset these )
just a thought. I use joes timers on my 35mm cams and they work great.
I've got JoeD's timer chip. Built the boards myself. Absolutely love them. He does have one programed for the longer refresh for the digital cameras. They work great and have plenty of features. Building the board isn't too difficult if you are handy at soldering. I have his timers in my 35mm setups also. But I'm sure Brian's are just as good. Heard great things on his chips also.
Joe does make a chip with a 2.5 hr refresh, I have some and they work great. The nice thing about the JoeD timer, is it requires less external components, so you can make the boards smaller. I just etched a batch of timer boards for the MS-20 that actually fit where all the removed components were, very compact, and all surface mount. They are considerably smaller than the RS timer boards I was etching.
No, the boards I etch are just made for the specific timer and PIR. I make two versions of my timer boards, one for active high PIR's like the RS PIR, and another for active low PIR's like the MS-20. The boards consist of a socket for the timer chip, a few resistors, and opto, and labled solder pads for all the connections to the PIR, LED, Camera, pushbuttons and power.
Here is a picture of the RS-Timer board, the MS-20 board is much smaller.