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Knife

Cant-hit-em

Member
So I had been using my old Buck 110 for everything hunting. I was ready for a new one and it was between the Havalon and Outdoors Edge. I ended up with the OE because of the simplicity of changing the blade out. Any thoughts on either of these and how durable are the blades ?
 

Bayboy2020

Member
I too was debating which to get but when i renewed my subscription to Eastman's hunting journal they sent me a free Outdoor Edge and I'm very happy with it
 

BelchFire

I speak fluent Vise-Grip
The Buck 110 is a classic. If I were in your shoes, I b'leeve I'd hit e-bay for another. I never used one personally, but my Dad never used anything else. I sure wish he hadn't given that knife to my nephew.........
 

jbcaptain11

Member
i have havalons and buck 110s, the havalons are extremely sharp and work great. the blades are thin and will snap if bent but u have more!! and i always carry some sort of survival knife with me also
 
I use a havalon, I love it. I see no need for any other butchering knife, if you know how to use it properly. However, I do carry a Cold Steel for general camp use, emergency use (it's clipped to you pack strap for quick access), or self defense, if the need arises.
 
Mora companion for me. I can get it stupid scary sharp on a whetstone it's lightweight and it takes a beating.

I also bought a havalon bolt this year that I plan to carry for fine detail work like caping or skinning a bear for a rug.
 

JustGuy

Banned
No other knife then the one i made myself.... This way i know what I'm using. Also, all my friends use only knifes made by me... they know what they are using
And old Buck 110 is a decent knife, but currently they make it out of 420HC which is a cheap substitute... Look on ebay prices for old Bucks and new ones, you will see the difference.
Knifes like children, you cannot relay on your neighbor to make them for you, you need to work hard and make them yourself. LOL...
 
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TheGDog

Member
I have the Havalon Piranta Bolt in my pack and it worked VERY well for most everything. (Be careful not to severe the limbs at there join to the body until you have completely finished skinning that appendage! I mistakenly separated a front leg from being connected to the body when the skinning of that leg was not yet complete, what a hassle/hightmare trying to hold onto a floppity arm whilst trying to skin it... you DO NOT need that kind of stress in your life.) (Also, when using the Piranta for deboning the muscles off, BE CAREFUL AND SLOW DOWN!!! I shanked the BLEEP! outta my index finger!) However I found I wanted / needed something longer and beefier for dragging along and cutting along the vertebrae and ribs for removing the backstraps and also for going in-between the vertebrae when removing the head (I didn't go between the skull and first vertebrae, my biggest mistake). I used my Buck 105 pathfinder for these other tasks and it worked admirably. However... the way the sheath is engineered... the belt loop does not allow the butt of the knife handle to ride below the hip-belt of your pack... which causes the 105 to ride in a weird cocked virtually sideways orientation. Which I don't look. Not optimal for rapid deploy.

Searching for solutions to this cockeyed knife problem... I just now today received the Buck 183 Alpha Crosslock folder that has a fine edge blade, and then a bone-saw with guthook for the other blade. (So I can eliminate a separate razor-blade-based Gerber gut-zipper tool from my pack, even though that took works amazing as well) I'm freakin' loving this 183 Alpha Crosslock! The handle is SUPREMELY grippy! I LOVE the handle on this thing. It has a good pocket-clip as well if you like... and the one-handed deploy with the thumb is probably the easiest and smoothest I'v ever experienced! I'd HIGHLY recommend checking this knife combo out as the only other knife you'll need to carry next to a Havalon.

The fine edge blade on this is a hair on the slim side. Slimmer than the buck 105. I probably wouldn't trust trying to robustly push this thing in-between the neck vertebrae and strong-arming with it in a twisting motion to try and pop the vertebrae apart. You'd probably have to finesse it a little bit more, or just say to heck with it and use the saw blade. Beauty part is it only weighs 4 oz! Fits my glove size XL hands perfectly... and this Uber-grippy handle would probably be the easiest to clean ever the way they engineered it.

I got mine in the Orange color. The beautiful Orange anodized handles would totally be HARD to misplace in the night under the light of a headlamp.

They are for sale at a much lower priced at Wally World. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Alpha-Crosslock-Orange/43745329

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TheGDog

Member
The paklite skinner was very helpful for me removing the thin layer of flesh which held onto the underside of the hide when I processed the hide later... since I do not have a "fleshing blade". Sometimes I'll wear the paklite skinner on my chest strap of the hunting pack, if I'm going out into D15. The terrain is much more open there and I have significantly less fear of some predator being able to ambush me their. And for those of you that might want to make fun of that cautious fear, I often go solo, and I have an 8yo mouth to feed, so my safety is important. I also bought the paklite boning knife. I did not get the S30V steel one. The idea was since the boning knife is longer, and something I felt I'd need and use out there... I was going to wear that on my belt so I'd have a fixed blade I could grab for quickly in self-defense, that was long enough I felt it could pierce vitals. However... that long blade is quite thin. It works pretty darn good at fillet'ing, but I couldn't put my trust in it for self-defense. I could easily see it snapping if I jabbed into a critters body and it hit a rib.

One of my goals with carrying a fixed blade on the hip was quick deploy just in case. While ordering this Buck Crosslock I also ordered the Schrade DeerSlayer. The reason I ordered the Deer Slayer is because I had previously ordered the Schrade SharpFinger (since it's soo inexpensive, and had a ton of good reviews) and found I really liked it a lot for processing meat in the kitchen. With my broken wrist, I also found that it's shape and blade design even made it easy to cutoff pieces of my steak with just the one hand, without having to exert much pushing-down force in the (broken wristed) hand which holds the fork to push down on the meat. Only thing is I just feel a little uneasy about relying on a mere 3" blade to be my fixed-blade knife to wear on the hip (a stab won't reach deep enough for vitals)... so I decided to opt for the larger 5"+ DeerSlayer model.

Now... I do not NEED this knife... I already used my Buck 105 pathfinder in this same capacity. Hanging on the hip... to rely on for self-defense if needed... and to use when needing to push a knife into a bone joint to eventually pop it apart. And the buck 105 is nice and sturdy in that regard and a really good shape for that too.... But here's the rub... the sheath of that 105.... though very beautiful, and beautifully crafted... the belt loop.... in my personal opinion.... needs to ride higher-up on the knife itself so that the knife can be held down below the hip-belt of my pack. As it stands now... the pack hip-belt causes this beautiful Buck 105 to have to ride pushed over all kindsa sideways in order to fit underneath the pack hip-belt. This causes accessing it when in the sheath to be a little awkward.

Now... with the inexpensive Schrades... here's the neat difference... their sheaths.... the belt loop.... is formed by folding-over and looping back around the top of the leather. So the beltloop is flush with the top (butt-end) of the knife, thus better carrying it below the pack hip-belt resulting in that knife not being all freakin' retardedly sideways!

Now... if I had more time on my hands and my stupid wrist was healed... perhaps I'd try taking on the task of making a hand-made leather sheath for that Buck 105. Because seriously... it's a well-made...not too heavy knife... that's the right size and a good shape that allows prying it into bone joints and also lets it do a pretty darn good job of fillet'ing. It worked really well for removing the back-straps on my first buck. I did not want to try doing that with the Havalon Piranta because that cut is sorta deep and I figured making that cut... where you use the vertebrae and the rib bones as your cutting guide for removing that meat... so your blade kinda slides upon those bones... I figured that might dull the scalpel blade on the Havalon real fast scratching it against bones like that. Also I wanted that cut of meat executed as cleanly as possible. You know... how having to make a deep cut with a smaller knife requires multiple passes and thus you don't get a nice pretty smooth cut to the meat on that side since you had to slide the knife across multiple times.

So anyhoo... if you can get over the need/desire to have a fixed blade on your hip... I believe the Havalon together with this Buck Alpha CrossLock would be pretty close to optimal since it has the saw blade which has a guthook on it... and only weighs 4oz.
 

TheGDog

Member
The buck paklite's are nice. being a weight weenie i swap out the sheath for cardboard and duck tape. That and a 10" sawsall blade for taking off the antlers is all i carry in my pack.

http://www.buckknives.com/product/paklite-skinner-knife/0140FAM01/
Question... don't you have to carry out the whole skull? I was pretty sure that's what the regs said. And... wouldn't you want to anyway to make a Euro mount out of it? PS.. really like that cardboard duct-tape idea!
 
Regs say, portion of the head that bears the antlers. Right or wrong, I have taken that to mean at a minimum they want to see the skull cap. With the fresh tissue attached it would prove a fresh killed buck.
I don't have any euro mounts or any full head taxidermy mounts. A deer with a nice rack will have his antlers mounted on a nice wood plaque with the skull cap and a small piece of plywood rounded out with paper mache and covered with tanned buckskin.
Glad you like the cardboard duct tape, I use the thin hard cardboard like from a cereal box.
 
GDog,
Just read your post #11 above. I've never made a full sheath out of cardboard for my belt, it just covers the blade and it stays dry in my back. I think getting it wet would make it fall apart. You might be able to make one real quick and see how it hangs on your belt and then use it a template for your leather project?
 
I always saw the horns off (if in the backcountry) and leave just enough of the skull intact to keep the horns together. Never had a problem with getting my deer validated. Also have a few horns mounted the way Bankrunner describes. I carry a really old light weight saw that I have had forever. Tried others but keep going back to the old one. For knives I use old Shrade 2 blade trapper folders to carry and fixed blades around camp or in the truck. Don't like the newer ones.
 

TheGDog

Member
The Buck Alpha Crosslock... its guthook proved to suck big donkey balls. It's fine-edge blade was meh, also.

I'm going back to the Gerber EZ-Zip. That thing made the guts literally open like a zipper! But you don't need the gut zipper. You can do it with the Havalon just fine. It just takes a lil longer to do is all. The Zipper just makes it quick and convenient is all.

Oh... also... I want to retract something I said on an above post. The Havalon can totally do cutting the backstraps off... no problem. I was more just worried that using it rubbing along all those bones as guides would cause the currently-installed blade to dull. This proved to not be the case.

The Havalon Piranta alone by itself is ridiculously lightweight. It's like an oz.

I just bought the new Havalon Evolve. Which is also a #60 scalpel...but now in a multi-tool! with pliers and screwdriver/bit-driver... and also a little fold-out guthook as well. This thing weighs... 6 5/8's oz. The Nylon zippered pack it comes which also includes saw-type blades to put on instead of the scalpel blade. And they included like 3 of this little plastic doo-hicky to make changing the blades easier/safer. But I've changed out the blades by hand with no issue. Just gotta do it carefully when doing it by hand.
 


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