Norcalihunter

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So I figure theres more then a handful of guys with a buck on the groud in the last few days. So lets talk simple hopefully easy homemade methods (if there is any) of preserving velvet on your trophies. Maybe something that doesnt involve injecting formaldehyde.

I've seen horns put straight on the wall last 15 plus years without doing anything to them. I've also seen the velvet start to peel off over a much shorter peroid of time.

I've heard simply spraying hair spray will do a world of good?

Other peope have said theres shellacs you can put on them?

Some have said just freeze them for a few months?

Maybe theres something at sportsmans I never knew about that I can pick up and just spray on them?

I've tried a little of this and that and it seems like its a 50/50 chance if you just put them straight on the wall they will cure themselfs and last forever or they may not sometimes... I havent found a way I like.

What do you guys think? How do you like to do yours?
 

SDHNTR

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Roy, where do you get the formaldahyde and syringes for the injection? Knock off a tweaker's trailer?
 

BOHNTR

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You can actually get the syringes (heavy guage) from a taxidermy supply store. I no longer use Formaldehyde, as it's too dangerous for me to work with, IMO. I use four-in-one solution which is basically a dentaured alcohol solution. I like it better than velvet tan.....but all of them will work.
 

SDHNTR

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Thanks bud. Give us some tips for finding the vein at the base. If I'm not mistaken, you inject the main vein at the base of the antler and keep injecting until all the blood comes out the tips right?

Ever tried any of the chemical soaking methods? I've heard mixed results.
 

BOHNTR

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Here's a short article I wrote on the subject a year or so ago. This method should only be used if you're in the back country and can't get it in a freezer or to you taxidermist in a timely manner. I've used it several times successfully. It takes some time, but the results are great:

Generally when archery seasons begin out West, most monster mule deer will still be in the velvet stage of antler development. Many hunters want to preserve their velvet trophy, but are either not able to get it frozen and preserved or get it to a taxidermist in a timely manner. As a result, the velvet slips and they no longer have the ability to mount it with the velvet on. Here's what I've done over the years that's worked for me.

If you want to properly preserve velvet antlers IN THE FIELD, you will have to inject & brush them with formaldehyde and/or some of the new less toxic chemicals (4 in 1 solution works great as does Knobloch's antler in velvet tan). I personally prefer the 4 in 1 solution to Velvet Tan, as it was easier to use for me, however, both will work. A very respected taxidermist whose specialty was velvet antlers taught me this technique.

First, (using rubber gloves and eye protection) take a razor blade and make small incisions at the tips of all points (less than 1/8"). Next hang the antlers upside down, allowing the blood to drain. Starting at the bases inject the solution into the veins (you'll see and feel them) that follow the antler. You will begin to see the solution "push" out blood towards the tips. Continue injecting the solution as you work the untreated blood towards the tips. When you reach the ends, make sure you've treated ALL the veins on each antler. You'll quit injecting solution when the color of the solution is the same coming out as it was going in. There are several different veins for each respective antler, so continue to inject areas around the base looking for them.

After successfully injecting both sides, allow the antlers to hang upside down overnight. After the solution has stopped dripping out the ends, use a very fine painters brush and lightly brush the velvet with the solution. This will prevent bugs from entering the velvet that has no blood. After allowing the velvet to dry, lightly "brush" out the velvet to give it the natural uniform look. Remember; wear eye protection and gloves when using formaldehyde or any other chemicals. Slow down and don't be in a hurry to finish. If done correctly, your trophy will last forever.
 

hatchet1

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while injecting with formaldehyde is very common,its not always practical for alot of hunters,
ive used just about every trick out there, and for the most part came up with the same results,
one method that is very user friendly and easily accessable is the coleman fuel or white gas method,
simply drill a couple of tiny holes in your antlers,purchase a plastic storage container fill it up with your
liquid coleman fuel ,let it set for a day or two, take it out and let air dry, save the fuel and re -use, and your good to go!
<
 

SDHNTR

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Thanks guys. Matt, I've heard of doing the same thing with turpentine and kerosene. The problem is packing all that into the backcountry.

Roy, I know I've read that somewhere, thanks for posting it again. I'm going to kill a monster coues deer next weekend (how's that for confidence?) so this is timely. Since even a monster coues buck is small, I could probably fit the whole thing in the freezer and get it in there within 12 hours or so. So doing that is preferrable to the injection method?

Also, when you inject do you only go into a vein one time and keep injecting (in that same hole) until it runs clean? Or do you inject in multiple spots up the same vein?
 

hatchet1

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YA I HEAR YOU NATE,THE METHOD I DESCRIBED WOULD ONLY BE PRACTICLE AT THE HOUSE.
MAN,IM JEALOUS!! I AM VERY CONFIDENT YOU WILL PIPE A BOONER WITH FESS AND THE CREW
<

LET THEM KNOW I WILL BE BACK, AND BEST OF LUCK PAL
<
 

BOHNTR

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Also, when you inject do you only go into a vein one time and keep injecting (in that same hole) until it runs clean? Or do you inject in multiple spots up the same vein?[/b]

Yes, that's why you want a heavy gauge needle with a large syringe to put the maximum amount of solution while you're still able to maintain that vein. But to be safe, I inject multiple sites throughout the antler to ensure all the blood is out or preserved. It takes some time, but when you're at camp, admiring your antlers, you won't mind it!

Good luck next weekend.....I'm leaving for the Strip tomorrow morning......after I'm done there I'm heading straight to Colorado for my back packing mule deer hunt. See you guys in three weeks.
 

BOWUNTR

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We'll see. I was told by my taxidermist that formaldehyde is the best, immediately after the kill. The blood starts to clot as soon as the heart stops. Blood is what rots the velvet. He is a skeptic of Velvet Tan but said it's better than doing nothing. The deer we shot on Kodiak were green as can be. I stuck a large needle in the tips of all the points and could penetrate 2" easily, down the center of the antler. They were soft, really soft and I suspect will shrink quite a bit. Surprisingly there was little blood in the tips. I injected them and we are using a combination of formaldehyde and freeze drying. We'll see. Ed F
 

Norcalihunter

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So good information guys. Thanks for your posts and thoughts. I'm trying the freezer method. (freeze it for a few months and take it out and see what happens), honestly i already tried that at the time of this post. Do you really think it matters if you freeze it for a few weeks or for a few months? Quit honestly I think this deer is ready to go on the wall. I think he wants to be there and be appreciate for all the buck he was and is. I want to give him his new home as soon as possibly. any suggestions? basically the deer was dead for 24 hours or so velvet started to peel a bit (i couldnt tell how much was from the drag and how much was from just sitting there) So i froze him. I would really like to preserve him as much as possible. Dont get me wrong he is no monster but i dont have many decent bucks in velvet in my living room at the moment. So keeping him as perserved as possible would be awesome.

Thanks for all your help guys.
 

soupr

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It may sound a little odd. I grew up watching the elders and I still do it today. But it is very basic. Just spread over the antlers salt and baking soda. Never had any problems with the velvet peeling and so forth. My last velvet buck was taken in October during rifle season a few years back. Velvet in October you say.? You must think I'm fooling you. This buck had no testicles and a small one not to brag about. Did some research on this condition. If they have no testicles they don't have the testostrone and the instinct to rub and some antlers just keep growing. Anyways back to the velvet and that buck. His velvet was a little thrashed when I shot him and just put salt and baking soda on him and he still looks good.
 

bayedsolid

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I just leave them in the hot sun for a few days or more until they are dried out. I have some that are 20 years old and the velvet is still perfectly fine. My son got one opening morning of rifle season that was in full velvet and had pretty soft tips still. 4 or 5 days in the hot sun and dry heat we have here and they are solid. Been in his room since then with no smell and no problems.....and no chemicals. If you lived or hunted somewhere a little humid or not very hot, it might make a difference but most places here in CA this time of year are way too hot and dry not to suck every last bit of moisture out of just about anything.
 

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