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GWHunter

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Okay, here goes...
I built the refresh crkt. and it would not work,(did nothing) so I put it on the breadboard to play with it. Still no go.I put a led on output of the 555 and I get a steady light. This is right? (oscillating).

I'm using the ms20's one is wired like tinhorns with the 10k res. in place of c3 using the 2 stage, the other like jesse's insructions.

The 3 wires from cam go to N.O. right? I've got that. What I need to know is exactly what wires to put where from pir and timer to refresh crkt.

Also is the 1/4 sec pulse long enough to put a led on pin 6 of the octo. to be able to actually see it working while on the breadboard or do I need to have it wired to the cam?

Thank You  much I hope I gave enough info.
 



Tinhorn

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You should <not> get a steady light off of Pin 3 of the TLC555, it is suspose to be off for 7 min's or so then ON a quarter second then off 7 more min's.  You can see the LED flash momentarily if your not bored into a stupor watching the thing for 7 min's (and don't blink, you'll miss it)   :eat-burger:

The Steady light may mean you got the LED hooked up the batt (-) and not batt (+) (thru a 560 ohm resistor, if it's a normal LED)  Actually, if it's hooked up this way, it will be a steady light until the 7 min's is up then it will go OFF a quarter second, lots harder to see that way I imagine but it'll prove the circuit is osc'g if you see the blink.....

You might try what I've done in the past, hooking up the OptoIsolator (Pins 4 & 6) directly to Cam Owl PF Pins 4 and Pin 6 (don't worry about hooking up the Shutter Relay yet) and let my wife <Listens> for the Flash ticking as it gets refreshed (I'm too old and deaf for this unless the cam is setting on my belly) [well actually, let YOUR wife listen for the ticking sound]

BTW, you can't just stick an LED to the Optoisalator's output, there is no voltage there to turn it on and if you get it hooked up so the LED will work, it will <Stay> ON when it's triggered, even tho the voltage is removed from the Input (Pins 1 & 2)  That's the nature of Triacs with DC.  The only way to get the LED to go out is to interupt the volts to it momentarily......

****************************************

ALSO:
Up at teh top of the pix it says "Shutter Relay"  This is the relay on the 2 stage timer, if you have one, or the relay installed in the PIR, if that's what you do......

****************************************

Here is the way I check wiring when I have a problem:

Look at PIn 1 of the 555, it goes to Batt (-) right
Look at Pin 2 of the 555, it only goes to 3 places, Pin 6, one end of the 1.5K and the (+) of the 220Uf Cap
Look at Pin 3 of the 555, it only goes to Pin 2 of the MOC3010 right

ETC

****************************************

Those 2 diodes marked GP Diodes means run of the mill, General Purpose, Power Supply diodes, like 1N4xxx  (1N4004, etc) and watch their polarity

Hope you get it working, it's a deceptively simple circuit ain't it

Tinhorn
 

GWHunter

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Does this mean that only one coil connection gets used on the relay? Just add one wire from the refresh crkt?
Also does the refresh get a input from the pir? And is that polar cap. a 220 uf?

Please forgive my ignorance



[well actually, let YOUR wife listen for the ticking sound]

:rofl

I'm forever indebted

(Edited by GWHunter at 10:14 pm on Jan. 7, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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I really got you Corn-Fused on the Shutter Relay sketched on the drawing!  that is suspose to represent the ENTIRE electronics that closes the relay contacts for the shutter shown there on the drawing.  Includes the PIR and it's relay or if you are using a timer, this is the PIR/Timer  and it's relay.....

I did that because some folks use a PIR/relay only and some use a PIR/Timer/Relay

I didn't mean for it too look like the relay was the only thing there.....my fault

The refresh circuit is an automatic circuit and does it's own thing,  no outside input at all except the battery's.  The interconnecting wires (and diode) between the shutter relay contacts and the refresh circuit is there to connect pins 5 & 6 together before connecting to pin 4 when a pix needs to be taken, the diode isolated the refresh pulse from Pin 5.....

You are correct on teh cap question

Tinhorn
 

GWHunter

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You da' man!:smile-blue


Maybe I'll have better luck this time.

Thanks a million!
 

TmKarren

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since we are on the subject I have been looking at these timers since I started about 2 months.  I don't have one on my cam.  The first time I put it out.  I had it on the 2 sec. delay.  That I don't think is long enought.  I took three pictures of the same deer (all with in the same minute.  The next roll of film I put  it on the same, and then the 2 min.  It took pictures of deer butts.  I don't know if it is because I had the camera on the (flash when it's in low light), or if I need a refresher.  I do know that If you Have it on this setting.  It takes longer than flash all the time mode.  I have a owl PF.  I do know (like I read somewhere)  If a deer keeps the PIR triggered for about three minutes or more it locks up the cam.  I have NO idea how these things work.  I have been on this site more than I care to tell.  I have read and studied these and pondered about using one.  I don't know if it's because it looks to complicated.  What one should I use or are they all the same.  Do they have diffrent time settings (without using diffrent (what ever those things are called).  cant you use like a wipper delay kit exept set it in longer delays?  THANK YOU FOR HELPING ME!!  I have been looking at these..

(Edited by TmKarren at 2:15 pm on Jan. 8, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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Make a Search for timers using JoeD's timers, they are easy and cheap to build.
 


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