NEED HELP

knothead

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i got 3 cams today and tore into them. the green coating....can it be scratched off?if so is it easier to heat the run and apply solder then heat again to stick wire? i have never soldered nothing. i need any help i can get. thanks
 



wfontjr

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tin your wire first, apply solder to end of solder pin, use solder pin to push wire down onto contact, hold wire still, remove solder pin, should take 1 sec or so, let solder set and should be good to go
 

knothead

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thanks man. i did it. the cam flashes when i touch wires togather.
 

Tinhorn

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and you can scratch away that green coating with a knife if you need to but "Tin" both the wire and "Trace" before soldering like WfontJR said

Tinhorn
 

Passthru

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 Also After soldering,dont test it by tugging on the wire,Big mistake,just ask me I barely pulled wire and ended up fixing the trace i pulled off,must have been a good connection huh.
 

knothead

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yea my first one i did the pull test too, those traces are hard to fix but it works.my second one i did different..i bridged 5&6 then i ran wire off bridge.then i only had one trace to deal with. i also ran both wires down battery side and out holes where rope strap went.the second wire i used the trace that is not under the button.it went togather so smooth.i got one more to do then i got to wait for componants from RS.(using hamiltoes board) i hope it is as easy as the cams.thanks you guys...i would never done it without you all. you all are really great
 

pigsdaddy

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    I am builing my first cam.  I used a canon owl eith the round on/off switch.  All of the other parts were from Radio Shack.  My problem is that I can test the cam with the red LED and it works just fine. I move in front of the sensor and the light comes on for a few seconds.  When I switch to the camera it snaps a pick and that is it.  You can march a band in front of it and nothing will happen.  I am not an electronics tech by any means, this is my first project and I think that I followed everything just as it was written and illustrated.  Can some of you more experienced guys give me a hand.  Thanks for your time.  Pigsdaddy  
 

Strutter

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I'll tell you how mine works.  If you have your switch in test mode and walk in front the light will come on.  If you are using a RS425 sensor from RS then the light will stay on for 5 seconds and then go out.  This happens when the sensor sees no movement for those 5 seconds.  If you have it in alarm mode it will work on a 30 second delay.  If you keep moving, the relay inside will not reset.  If you flip your switch to camera while the light is on it will cause the camera to flash because the relay is at that time energized  and this will cause the cam to work.  What you want to do is flip the switch to camera mode from a position that you will not be in front of the sensor and the light needs to be off when the switch is made.  After a pic is taken, it will take 5 seconds in Chime mode for the cam to reset for the next pic.  This is without seeing any motion for 5 seconds and no motion for 30 seconds in Alarm mode.   Now that I have confused you, have fun and good luck.

Strutter
 

MCinIL

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Pigsdaddy, welcome to the forum. How in the world did you end up with that handle? On the subject of the cam, if you short the two (Ipresume), wires to the camera does it work every time. Check that first to see if it is the sensor or the camera. MC.
 

pigsdaddy

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Man I have got to get this thing fixed and out in the woods.  I have been reading all of those posts about how many pics everyone else is getting.  I am dieing to see what kind of boogers live in the bottoms and hollers of South Alabama.  I can't wait to get some pics of a buck that I named ole cedar two years ago.  I have never seen him, but I did find a shed and it is huge.  Oh well maybe soon!     :happy face spinnin:
 

Idaelk

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Pigsdaddy, make sure you are on pin #2 On the RS PIR assuming the camera works. If the camera is wired up correctly it will flash when you touch the two wires together. If it works its time to double check the wiring on the PIR side of things. Hope this helps cause I want to see pics of OLE CEDAR!
 

lordfrosty

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I'm attempting my first homebrew and I'm running in a bit of a problem.  I sodered the bridge between 5 and 6 and I sodered the connecting wires but then I couldn't get the camera to flash or for the shutter to close.  So I removed the soders of the two wires and I still couldn't get the camera to flash or shutter.  The only thing I could make the camera do is rewind.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  thanks

(Edited by lordfrosty at 2:28 am on July 12, 2002)
 

RSB

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I can't help with your problem but welcome to jesse's site. Someone here will help you.
again welcome aboard.
 

davered1

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I have done that twice. Could never get the camera to wirk again. Does it rewind for a long period of time? thats it!

MINE WERE HOOPED!!
 

lordfrosty

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No it just rewinds like its rewinding a roll of film.  The only other thing I have made it do it when I touch the #4 pin with a positive and the 5/6 pin with negative (ie 9v) it makes the camera turn off and come back on again in 3 seconds.
 

Archilochus

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Hi LF,
Am I understanding that right??  You connected a 9Volt supply across the shutter contacts?? (pins 4,5, & 6)

If so, toss the cam in the rubbish and start over (OK - save the carcass for parts).  NEVER!!** connect an external voltage to any point in the cam.  The only exception to that would be if you used an external battery adapter (like the one on my web-page < http://archilochus.netfirms.com/ >  scroll down to bottom).  Never use a battery supply greater than 3 volt nominal.

Archilochus
 

lordfrosty

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Even before I connected the 9v to the contacts I couldn't get the camera to shutter or flash.  
 

davered1

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You shorted something out when you soldered the first time. I did it and it can't be fixed(at least not by me).If it's your first camera you should try a different camera the PF's and BF's are finicky cameras. ****** has some AF date stamps at a very reasonable price, also some Polaroid 2400FF's too. These cameras are a lot more forgiving than the PF and BF.
 

Archilochus

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Hi LF,
As davered said, something got toasted the first time through.  But still, don't apply external voltages to the circuit.
Another thing to avoid is static electric damage to the circuit.  While working on the cams - either use static control products (like the wrist straps from RS) - or just touch a grounded object occasionally while working.  A metal switch or outlet cover or exposed plumbing works (assuming copper plumbing - not PVC).

Archilochus
 


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