I haven't done a p41 yet but I have a few pics under my photos of a p32. I would be interested in seeing a pic of the inside of a 41 also. Mine come out the end towards the top but I mount my cams on the bottom of the case. I've seen alot of guys do it the opposite.
Here is the inside of my setup. I will take pics of the inside of the 41 when I get the flat flex cable here and take it apart. The system is in a Pelican 1040 with the new Universial board. Nice and small!
Yes, you can close the lid. The picture looks like the camera is WAY to big, but the lid does close. You have to take a dremel and "sand" the inside of the case and the inside of the lid a little on one side so it will fit. This is by far my favorite setup so far. Here is a picture of the case closed.
I don't have any pictures, both of mine were just put in the woods today but on the p32 I drill a small hole in the plastic where the hand strap attaches. I cut out the metal wire used to hold the strap. Works great.
The 41 will not fit without doing a little sanding on the inside edges of the case. This was well worth it for me to have a system setting vertical. It took about 4-5 minutes with the dremmel with a sanding stone. The case thickness is about 1/8" at the flash and lens holes. This is a 1040 case. I have several systems in 1060's, but they are huge and seem to relly stick out when setting horizontally on a tree.
It is just 1/8" acrylic plastic sheet(plexiglass). It goes from under the board and batteries up to where you can see it and bends at a 90 for the "shelf". You can easily heat it and bend with a torch, but I have a strip heater that is made for bending plastics(I teach a plastics unit at school). Since it goes under the board and batteries I just anchor the board to it and hot glue it down in the bottom of the case. This eliminates the 4 holes in the case to hold the board. The only holes I have are the lens, flash, PIR, and the hooks on the side. I will take some pictures of it during the process later this week when I build another.
KANSASBUCKHUNTER if you will post a picture showing your enclosure where you can see the grinded area so we can get an idea of how much has to be grind off of the enclosure. That shelf idea sounds great also, a picture of one of those would be appreciated also. The cam looks great,
That shelf concept sounds great. And you are right, I took some scrap 1/8" plexi and put a torch on it for a few seconds and it bent easily. I'm real curious what this strip heater is and where to get one. I assume it is to make straighter and tighter bends. What type of adhesive do you use to attach the plexi to the case? And do you have to recess some holes on the inside of the case to make room for the panheads that hold the board to the plexi?
I actually use 1/4" plywood on the very bottom of the case then on top of it is the acrylic. I use the wood so hot glue will stick to it better and hold it down to the rubber bottom of the case. Then to hold the acrylic down to the wood, I use the screws that go through the battery holder through the plastic and into the wood to hold it all together. The 1/4" plywood base makes the P41 set the exact height from the lid so I do not have to use any gaskets around the lens opening. I put some camoflauge felt on the area of the plywood that the camera sits on for looks and to cushion the back of the camera.
You can countersink the the hole on the bottom of the plywood so the bolts will set more flush to the bottom of the case.
As you can see in the above picture, once you cut the rubber liner where the camera sits you do not have to dremel much at all. Make sure not to cut the gasket part of the liner though
. A sharp razor run down along the edge of the inside part of the case works well and you do not have to worry about getting up on the gasket. Total amount of plastic you must dremel out of the case is less than 1/32".