Problem

SWAMPFOOT

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I HAVE BEEN RUNNING INTO A PROBLEM W/SENSOR HOLDER THAT COMES W/MS20. I HAVE BEEN USING HOT GLUE TO STICK MY SENSOR HOUSING FROM THE MS20 TO THE INSIDE OF MY 6X6X4 ELECTRICAL BOXES FROM HOME DEPOT AND LOWES AFTER SANDING BOTH ITEMS THE BOX AND THE HOUSING I HAVE HAD A FEW OF THESE BREAK FREE W/LITTLE OR NO HANDLING I HAVE ALSO BEEN FINDING THAT MY SILICONE I HAVE BEEN USING IS ALSO NOT STICKING AS GOOD AS IT SHOULD.   I HAVE ONLY HAD ONE TO LEAK THUS FAR FROM THE TOP HOLE LOOKING IN TO THE PIC# ON TOP OF THE UNIT BUT IM NOT HAPPY W/THE WAY IT IS ADHERING TO THE BOX .   I AM USING THE CLEAR PERMATEX BRAND THAT YOU CAN GET FROM WALMART.  I HAVE STARTED TRYING SOMETHING CALLED ALL WELDER THAT I RECENTLY FOUND IN HOPES IT WILL DO BETTER BUT TIME WILL TELL.  ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED.   I MAY TRY JB WELD NEXT    WHAT IS EVERYBODY ELSE USING ON THESE PLASTIC ELECTRICAL BOXES?.
 

undcoverbob

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I have drilled 2 small holes in the back of my MS20 sensor and used 2 small screws to attach it to the box; works really well.
 

Tinhorn

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I have been using Goop from Wal-marts automotive department to glue everything but Sprectr17 said his cams were failing with this glue.  So far, mine are oke with it but...

I think some turned to RTV adhesive but I have no experience with it.  (because I haven't located any yet)

Tinhorn
 
H

hookingbull

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Swampfoot, i have used a different approach that you may be interesting in trying next time.  I am using the same electrical box as you, but i have been mounting the ms20 sensor under the box.  I drill a hole in the bottom and insert the wires and the plastic neck with the swivle through this hole. On the inside directly above the hole i have glued the pvc round ring that i have sawed off of the light assembly, this ring acts as a "snapring" when the neck in inserted through the bottom,  I have added some silicon as a back up, im thinking that with the sensor being mounted directly under the box that it will shield it from most of the weather as well.  I found also by using the mounting hardware, you can incorporated the swivel in the equation and you have easy movement for reloating the sensors path.  Not sure if this is the best way, but so far it has worked well for me.  Hope this help.   Good luck!  hookingbull
 

dalliwacker

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I used Translucent RTV made by Dow Corning, it is very tacky before it hardens and afterwards is tuff as nails (trust me, even I attempted to take it off of my cam and had problems).  The other RTV I would recommend is made by General Electrics, again translucent RTV.  I think the Dow is pretty hard to come by, but I know you can get the G.E. online.  
 

gizz

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What I've been doing is using Hot Glue to "set" the sensor, lenses, etc.. because it dries so quick. Then I apply a lot of RTV Silicone to the joints. It seems to be working fine although I've had a couple instances where the silicone gives way from rough handling. I'm thinking plastic welding would work but then again could make more of a mess!!
 

Curtiss

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If you are having problems with rtv, go buy a tube of rubber urethane . ( windshield urethane) Tough to get off, but it will stay on. It also makes good seals. Be sure not to get it on your clothes.
   Curtiss
 

caveman

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Here's my 2cnts.Try P.V.C.cement since th box is made of it.Thats what I used to glue my ms-20 to the outside of the box.So far so good.
 

d91

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I'm using automotive GOOP and using 5min epoxy also. The automotive GOOP works really well. I really 'goop' the back of the sensor up (make sure you cut the top lip and the little cleats from the back - think surface area) then I press it into place and secure it with electrical tape, let sit for a day or so.
 

mkacala697

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just got my first pics back but theres a problem all blank, and not misfires!  all negatives were blank, cam never shot a pic, or i took in a new roll of film!

Any ideas?
 

Tinhorn

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Hi mkacala697,

The Owl PF completly rewinds the film into the canistor so if a 'Tail' was sticking out of the film you had developed, it was a NEW roll

Also, when a new roll is placed in the camera, it starts winding the film when the door is closed.  If the cam's mechanism picked up the film's end, the counter displays a "1".  If it still says "0" then open the door back up and rethread the film.  The counter must show a "1" ......

When I place a cam out, especially a new one, I ALWAYS test it by walking in front of it both when I leave it and when I pick it up.  This way I am proving it worked the whole time it was out, even if no animals walked by it.......

Tinhorn
 

Steve Jo

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Wired in a 5vdc NO relay into this board.  Clean job, doesnt look like any obvious problem.

Without power applied leads going to camera show open when tested, once power is applied they close [no audible click from the relay] they never open again until power is removed.

Ive tried putting the board in a box to make sure the PIR is not over reacting and it doesnt appear to be the problem.

Any suggestions?

Should I go get another PIR and Relay and try again?

Thanks
 

bradjenkins

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I think that I am having the same problem.  When everything is connected, my LED test light works fine, but my camera never works.  When I test the camera directly, it works fine.  Any suggestions would be very welcome.  I'm very frustrated!!
 

Steve Jo

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all of them ;)

Ive tried 6v 9v and 12v.

I bought a 9v relay tonight Ill wire it in and see if it works.  I bought a rs PIR and wires it, it works though the relay amplifies the chiming noise from the speaker wire since it wouldnt work comming off of pin 2.
 

doublebeard

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Hey Fellows
 I have had same PROBLEM I think its something with the reed type relays cause I tried 5vdc reed,9vdc reed, and the 12 vdc reed with no luck at all and all 3 did the same when powered the board the relay would close and never open again until i removed power from board
I got a 9 vdc relay that looks just like the one you remove from the board except it has a extra pin that you wont need i cant think of the name of it but it looks just like the one the board needs removed and it is 9vdc
 I used it with the board that I had so much trouble with and everthing worked great and these type relays do click when they are tripped not real loud but you can hear them
 I beleave you had tried the same reed type as I did and I think they must have something wrong with them

anyway try the 9 or 12 vdc like the one the board comes with and it should work

however you might plan on getting a good rechargeable batt or several c cells and wire them together to get it to work for a good while

9 volt batt will work for a day or two but wont last

HOPE THIS HELPED
 

Steve Jo

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Thanks
I went and bought a 9v relay and will solder it in tonight.

I bought the RS PIR and a 5v and got that working as a just in case scenario but I would like to use the MS20
 

davered1

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steve jo

use 9v power supply with the 9v relay and it should work .let me know if it doesn't.
 

Steve Jo

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9v power supply with 9 volt relay works.

Im curious why we have so many inconsistant results.  i.e. some people can solder directly to ic pin 2 on the RS PIR, but many have to use the speaker wires...  same with this PIR and only one voltage setup working well.

Be interesting to put together a parts list for a first time no brainer cam tracker for the newbies who are breaking into this.  I know after my fourth or fifth Ill have more patience for experimentation but after plunkin down a bunch of money on stuff to do this, the uncertainty of low percentage options can be very frustrating.
 

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