Radio Shack 49-425 PIRs

Hill Hopper

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Picked up a couple of Radio Shack PIR's today in case someone needs a couple. I don't use them usually, normally use MS20's with AEH's and my timer or Brians. If anyone wants them, they are each $9.97 + tax & $2.00 shipping for one or both. E-mail or message me if you want one or both.
 



fishboy1

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Butch,
Just picked up an extra one since they are on clearance.  New model is 49-426  Dont know if they changed the guts or not. Good price.  I dont need any extras but that is a good deal and someone shoud snap them up since reg price is $24

David
 

bigbucks

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Fishboy, the 426 works the same as the 425, it is just turned around a little. Your 5v pulse is still off pin 2 on the big IC. I found it is easier to solder to J2 on the front of the board.
 

Alberta

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Do you still have those 49-425's available?  If so, I'd be interested in getting them sent up to Canada providing our local Radio Shacks prove to be as useless as ever.  Let me know.
 

ICS Hunter

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I am trying to build my first camera with all of your guys help.  And I appreciate it greatly.  I was wondering about sensors though.  I see where it has been said that the radio shack PIR's draw less power than the MS20 (WM2), but when I went toRadio Shack they didn't have the 425's, all they had was the 426's.  On the box of the 426 it says for indoor use only.  I was wondering if the outdoor temps would affect the performance of the sensor or not.  Can anyone help me on this?  After I settle this dilemma then I am on to deciding on a timer circuit as well.  Any ideas on which would be better.  I have a WM2 PIR sensor already, and plan to put it on a Canon PF unit.  Thanks for any help you might be.
 

Hill Hopper

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Welcome to the board ICS.Indoor dosn't mean anything, as the 425 was also. My preference is the MS20 with low power mods. I use these with either a board I etch with Brian's chip, or a lower level timer AEH and I make based on Jon's inhibit mods. The Radio Shack is probibly a little easier unless you are used to soldering. Plenty of info here on Both. If you decide to use the MS20 and are skitzy about making the mod's E-mail me.
 

ICS Hunter

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I appreciate that greatly.  I will probably use the MS20 for my first camera since I already have it.  I have been reading up on the mods and such, and to tell you the truth, it is a little overwhelming since I haven't yet constructed my first complete unit.  I think I would be crazy to build it without the new mods for power conservation.  I appreciate the offer and may have to ask a few more questions or so.  Thanks.:toast-yellow:
 

Tominator

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Come on ICS, you're a techster for goodness sake! Don't wait, just jump in, it's not as overwhelming as it looks once you get your hands dirty (or burnt!). Oh yeah, Welcome aboard and DO NOT LOSE TO CLEMSON AGAIN THIS YEAR!!! Lose to Clempson and you're on JHP probation, comprende?
Tominator
 

u turned em

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****** and AEH,

I took a look at the post from 7/21/02 on the subject of y'alls timer.  Since it has been a few week's since your "R&D" release, has it proven to work as well as you expected?  Can you share more "do it yourself" instructions with us including the DIP switch positions that you are using?  Are the parts avaiable at RS?  Thanks.

ICS.....your a "Ramblin' Wreck from GT and a Hell of an Engineer" and you are worried about trashing that MS20 board?  Come on now.........worse case scenario is that you'll have to run back out to the Madison Wal-Mart (been there!) and get another.  Why do you want to spend $26 on the RS pir if you can find them in stock when Wal-Mart has lots of the MS20's for $8 or less?  Seriously, I'm right there in the same boat with you....this is my first and I've already fried 1 board.....so that one was my "training board!"  I found the MS 20 basic mods. to be fairly simple so far, so I'll keep using them and it's looking like 9V is the way to go. Good luck!

Regards from West of the Big Chicken,
U Turned 'Em  
 

Hill Hopper

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U Turn, it's beyond R&D, it works. The dip just puts resistors in series. The boards are custom that AEH and I designed and etch. All theory is based off the inhibit & mods Jon and Gantly posted. Unless you can etch, perf board would probibly be the only other option. You would probibly have to order the small radial capacitors, and the optos are not aval. at Radio Shack. They are an order item.

(Edited by ****** at 5:57 am on Aug. 15, 2002)
 

u turned em

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******,
Please educate me some more (I'm one of the electronically challenged !).....does your timer hold the relay/camera shutter closed for the added mod. times or does it just delay the pir for longer?  I'm concerned about holding the camera shutter (Owl PF's) closed for extended periods.  Also, I believe that your 7/21/02 post indicated that you would make and sell these ready to go. Is that still correct?  Thanks again.
 

Hill Hopper

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The opto is on the timer board and replaces the relay. One of the resistors on the MS20, its either R25 or 26, I'd have to check, controls the shutter hold. The timmer does not hold the shutter closed, but prevents the triggering of the opto and camera for the specified interval.
 

ICS Hunter

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Well, I may be a Georgia Tech "Fan", but I seem to lack in the engineering knowledge that those boys have.  I'm not scared to take on this project, I'm just not familiar with terminoligies and all that are being used.  Thanks Hillhopper for the thread on your timers, I may just have to try that.  I'm hooking to the Canon PF camera as well, and that does make it seem a lot easier, I think.  

I have a couple of questions regarding the mods to the MS20.  Am I correct in thinking that I read somewhere to hook a jumper from L1 to L3 (black wire) in order to maintain a 3 wire system? Or should I use a 4 wire setup?

Another question is where does my 9 volt battery clip wire up to?  I guess I missed that one earlier.

And last, I could use a little info on where to wire up the LED for my walk test.

Sorry guys, I'm just a dumb old Georgia "Redneck" and sometimes I have to slow down and ask some questions, even if they are stupid. :confused-yellow:
 

Hill Hopper

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ICS, I think there may be a little confusion. I have to run right now, but will try to go thru some of it with you later if no one else does.
 

Hill Hopper

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ICS, hope this helps.Typically, on an Owl, I would recommend a three wire hookup from the camera to a female jack mounted on the cam. These three wires are the shutter, focus, and common. This means running a wire from pins 5 and 6 rather than jumpering them as shown here
http://www.jesseshuntingpage.com/canon-owl-pf.html . Then, if you are going to use a two wire setup, as you normally would if not using a high level timer with a refresh, short the connections on the male side of the plug between where the wires from pins 5 &  6 would go, and run a single wire. This will give you 2 wires coming out of the male plug. These will be the jumpered 5 & 6 for one wire, and the common for the other. If you are using one of AEH’s and my timers, these 2 would go to the opto on the timer board, if you are just using the low power mods, these would go to the MS20 board. See this link for just the connection to the MS20 http://people.txucom.net/srbarclay/LowPower.htm . In addition, that link will also display the basic low power modifications for the MS20. If you wanted to use one of AEH’s and my timers, then you would leave off the “dead bug” opto from Jon’s low power mods, make all but the R24 mods in this link http://people.txucom.net/srbarclay/SimpleTimer.htm and hook up the timer per its instructions

Now for the test led.  Locate pin 14 of the IC Chip, looking at the
component side of the board, position it such that the switch is at
the bottom. There should be a little notch in the top of the IC chip.
Pin 14 is the top right hand pin. Turn the board over, and solder the
red LED wire to where pin 14 is soldered to the board. Now solder
the negative lead (Black) of the LED to the switch tab.
Solder a wire from the other switch tab to the board
common. That’s it.

Hope I didn’t confuse you, if I did, let me know.
 

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