Radio Shack PIR Notes

Tinhorn

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Thanx to ShrtCkt I was able to go over the RS PIR and find the following information:

Measured Current:
Idle = .08 ma's  (~4 weeks on 9v batt)  
      Correction the calcs indicate 10 months of use at .08 ma's)

Tripped (no relay or speaker) .31 ma's
Tripped w/5v reed relay & 220 Ohm resistor:  17.26ma's

6 Volt Battery
I believe a 6v battery source, such as 4 AA's or 4 C's or even a 6v lantern battery will drive the PIR much longer than a 9v battery.  When the 6v battery runs down to 5 volts or so, the PIR may become unstable and quit working properly but I believe it will take a long time to get run down to that point.

Timer Trigger
Use the BLACK Speaker wire to trigger a timer, like JoeD's or Tinhorn 2 stage Timer.  No connection on the RED wire (but it does go to Batt (+) so watch it)  

Powering JoeD's Timer from PIR
even using a 9v battery, there is a 5v power source on the PIR that can run JoeD's Timer.  5v (+) is located on the (+) side of C2 (located in the corner by the large IC)  Use Batt (-) for JoeD's (-)

CAUTION:  double Check Yourself with a Volt Meter

No Singing Relay (see Pix Below)
Lifting one leg of R14 and jumpering this leg to Pin 4 of the Small IC and connecting a 5v reed relay to the speaker wires will bypass the Musical Notes of the PIR.  Don't forget the Protection Diode across the Relay Coil Wires (drawn in below)  The relay will probably last longer this way to since it won't be "Chattering" with the Music.

The PIR has to be set to ALARM mode.  This will hold in the Reed Relay for 30 seconds continuosly, with no chimes, etc.  This also means there will be a 30 second delay between pix's.  In Chime Mode, the camera will probably take several pix's in a row-not good (unless a timer is attached, it won't then).....

Adding the 200 to 220 ohm resistor in series with either relay coil terminal will drop the 9v batt voltage down to ~5 volts, which is also easier on the relay.

12 volt NOTE:  I have not tried using a 12v reed relay but believe it will work ok as Noted below.


 

INshedpicker

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Tinhorn, if one did use a 6 volt supply, would there still be 5 Volts at the supply for a Joe D. timer?
 

Tinhorn

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That 5 volts is always there, there is an internal Voltage Regulator to knock down the battery voltage to 5volts
 

coyotehunters

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WHATS UP WITH THE SINGING RELAY. I HOOKED MINE UP JUST LIKE ON JESSES SITE AND I HAVE NO SINGING RELAY.I HAVE SEEN A FEW POST SHOWING HOW TO HOOK IT UP WITH THE SINGING RELAY. IS THEIR A BENEFIT FROM HOOKING IT UP SO THAT YOU GET THE SINGING RELAY.MINE SEEMS TO WORK FINE LIKE IT IS. BUT I DONT WANT TO MISS OUT ON SOME NEAT FEATURE BY HOOKING IT UP LIKE JESSES SITE SHOWS.. I HAVE BUILT 3 CAMS THIS WAY AND I AM PRETTY COMFORTABLE HOOKING THEM UP NOW. IS THIS THE NEXT STEP AFTER YOU LEARN HOW TO DO THE SIMPLE HOOK UP.
 

INshedpicker

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So, also then I assume that the use of a 6 volt supply won't affect the PIR's range either?
 

sven

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In reference to only using the alarm mode, this is more situational or personal preference isn't it?  

If I set my cam on a trail as opposed to a feeding area or bait pile, I want my cam to take a pic of every deer.  Not just every 30 seconds.  A lot of deer can go by in 30 seconds.
 

Tinhorn

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Right MSfelton, the whole thing actually runs on 5 volts except the relay coil, which connectes directly to the battery, which is why it's a good idea to use the 200 or 220 ohm resistor

Coy'hunters, the singing relay is NOT GOOD for the relay.  The relay is chattering with the music and putting undue wear and tear on it.  

The singing relay occurs only when it's hooked up to the speaker wires.  Those who connected the relay coil up to Pin 2 of the Big IC won't have a singing relay but the relay current may be borderline overloading the IC, I don't know what the specs are on that IC

Sven, setting the mode to "Chime" may cause the cam to take several pix's.  In alarm mode the voltage off pin 4 is a stable 5volts for the whole 30 seconds but in Chime Mode, the voltage goes up and down (with the chimes) which will trigger the relay each time and take multiple pix's.

Another Clarification:  The R14 lead to lift is the side towards the Red Wire.  It's a little unclear in the pix and my note is suspose to be pointing at the resistor, not the lead to lift.......

Tinhorn
 

INshedpicker

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Ok, Tinhorn or anyone else, I'm confused (yes, again).  I'm about to try your RS mod with Joe D's timer and want to power the timer from the sensor.  I'm afraid I'll just ramble if I try to explain what's confusing me.  Can you tell me specifically how these two units are hooking together.  Specifically, how the sensor's relay contacts connect to the timer, if timer's batt'y minus goes directly to batts or to relay(I understand Batt plus).

And one other question, when you say "lifted" leg of R14, this means that the leg is no longer connected to the board, right?

Thanks once again.
 

Tinhorn

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MSFelton,

Connecting PIR Output to JoeD's Trigger
Just connect the black speaker wire to JoeD's trigger, Pin 4, no relay needed on the PIR at all.  This worked just fine.....

using the RS PIR's 5volt's to Power Supply JoeD's Timer
+5 volts is located on the (+) side of C2 (100uf) (the terminal closest to the Large IC)  Just solder a wire from this point over to JoeD's Timer Power Source input.  If you have a Volt Meter, might want to check this wire just to be sure it says 5v  (or 5.22volts)

Common Batt Ground
Connect the PIR and JoeD's batt(-) connections together with a wire

Lifted Leg
yes, melt the solder on the Resistor and pry out that lead with a knife point or ?,  then solder a wire to this Lifted Lead and jumper over to the IC as described above.  Be sure and lift the correct end of the resistor.......

Tinhorn
 

Tinhorn

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Changing the 30 second Delay

I did a little more tinkering and found the "Timing" resistor for the "Alarm" mode of the RS PIR

This resistor (R11) is located next to the Black Speaker Wire.  It's original value is 1.8 meg  (or 1800K ohms)

If instead of a 30 second Shutter Press you want a 15 second Shutter press (and 15 sec delay between pixs) then change this resistor to this value:

15 sec / 30 sec =  .5  

1800K  X  .5  =  900K ohm resistor....Get It ! ! !

(actually a 910K will be the closest commercial resistor)

***********************************

10 sec delay (the Minimum I'd use)

10 / 30 = .33

1800K X .33 = 594K  (560K commercial)

I saw no change in Current when messing with this resistor value BTW

Tinhorn
 

davered1

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Tinhorn,

re.Changing the 30 second Delay

Is there any way to change that to 1 min or something more than 30 sec. or will it fry the board?

thanks,Dave
 

Tinhorn

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The resistance of R11 would have to be about doubled, as you probaby figured out and I bet it would work with no problems but I grabbed a cap, of some unknown value, and paralleded C10 with it(which adds to it's value) and the delay was several minutes.

you might try a .0047 or so and see what happens.  I'll do it too and pay more attention to the value next time.....

I don't think it would hurt a thing, when I did this, I saw no difference in the current the PIR was drawing....

Tinhorn
 

INshedpicker

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Tinhorn, you cleared up exactly what I needed to know, thanks again.

Now on the timing resistor matter, for those of us using a timer that regulates both "shutter press" and delay time (for example Joe D's), would it do any harm to knock the PIR's output pulse length down to around 3 seconds (or even less for that matter)?

This would simply make things more efficient when using a test LED to set the cam up, not having to wait 10 or 20 or 30 seconds for the light to go off before triggering it again.

Theoretically, wouldn't a 3 second pulse save on battery life vs. a 30 second pulse?  Assuming of course, it's not triggered 10 times as often?  I'm no genius when it comes to electricity.

(Edited by msfelton at 2:35 pm on Jan. 24, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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I agree with you MSFelton and think it would increase battery life.

Also, my Joed's Timer minimum time is 15 seconds, so the PIR needs to time out before that, otherwise the minimum time would be the PIR trigger time.

Tinhorn
 

Tinhorn

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I forgot to mention in any of the reports above that the RS Timing Cycle is not what's called "Retriggable"  In other words, sensing Motion does "NOT" cause the time to start over.

In-Other-Words:
It will time out in 30 seconds, no matter if the sensor detects movement during this 30 seconds or not.  At the end of 30 seconds, it will not trigger again, until the next time it senses movement.....

Tinhorn
 

max

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Tinhorn,
 What  Diode(RS part #?) should I use between the 5v reed relay and the 220 resistor? Also, where would I hook up a LED (for a walk test) with this "New" revised set-up?
   Thanks MAX
 

INshedpicker

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I'll field the diode question, but will hold off on the LED matter, because I am known to confuse innocent folks.  Any 1N400x series diode will work.  The most common is 1N4001.
 

bat

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Tinhorn,
 Ok all this resistor stuff has gotten my attention.  Would this work with the delay?  Take out the resistor, run a wire from input end of the resistor attachment on the board to a Multiselector switch which connects to individual different value resistors for different delays so you can select different delays for different situations then connect all resistors output ends together back to the board.  Boy I hope that works if it does you could select different delays for trails or watching bait.  Would it hurt anything to have all the output ends of the resistors connected together, I'm not an electician. I do understand what the resistor does with current coming into the input side of it but not the output side if they were connected.

(Edited by bat at 9:01 pm on Feb. 3, 2002)
 

davered1

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Tinhorn,

Let me get this right,the way I read this is as follows.

If I use the RS right out of the box and hook relay to pin#2 the pir can time out the camera if sensor has "motion" for + 3 minutes?

But hooking it up this way the PIR times out no matter if there is movement for 1 minute or more, It times out 30 seconds after first motion sensed. RIGHT?

how does this work?
 


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