Some Questions for those Homebrew's

Jimmy Jones

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OK, I've got a few.  I've made two camera's and both are in the field right now.  From my first expereinces using these homebrews I've had some questions come to mind. By the way I used the Owl PF and the radio shack portable alarm motion detector plans:

1. How long will the lithiom 9volt battery last?
2. Will temperature effect my homemades? If so, what temperature should I stop using them?
3. Will different batteries sources create different ranges for the motion detector? Meaning will I get longer ranges if I use a more powerful battery?
4. I used a pistol case for my compartment.  So I removed the motion detector screen and flattened out and siliconed to the flat surface of the pistol case.  What did doing this do to my laser beam(if anything)?
5. How important is the distance from the sensor to the laser screen?
6. Does anyone have advice on how I could better see the test light when the sun is shining on the unit?  It's really hard to see the red light when the sun is shinning on it.


In finishing, I would like to thank Spect for all the work he and anyone else did on creating this website.  I really enjoyed this project.

JJ
 

bigmandude

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as far as temperature,
i seem to have trouble till the high temp drops below 80 degrees, with the Mainstay sensor.

below that all is fine
 

Tinhorn

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Jimmy Jones,

I'll take a shot at some of your questions but some have been discussed before so when you have the time, go thru the old posts.....

1.  
Not sure how long that kind of battery would last but if you know the current draw of your unit there is a formula to roughly calculate it.

Hours = Battery Ampacity / current
(ampacity = amphours)

2.
by the way you phrased this question, I assume you mean "Cold" temp's.  there is a post about a "Freezer" test on this page.  Back in the summer, there were numerous posts about the High Summber temps causing problems, like false alarms and loss of sensitivity.  Seems when the Temp got over 80, the problems started....

3.
No increase in PIR range

4. & 5.
This distance between the Fresnel Lens and the Sensor is critical, need to review past posts about this too

6
We all have the same problem but after I got comfortable with my woods "Setup" I didn't need the light anyway.  I have a hunch you won't either but one thing I do is walk in front of the unit, especially when picking it up, just for a "Flash" test.  If it flashes then, I know it was working the whole time it was out.......

Dont forget to go back and review the old posts

See Ya!

Tinhorn
 

Matt in MO

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Jimmy - you in Springfield? I was in a Radio Shack a while back and the salesman said someone else was just in buying the same parts for a deercam!  

You don't have no "laser beam" boy, just a sensor that reads infrared light. Yes, you need to keep the distance from the inside of the lens to the sensor (little silver can with a rectangular "window") at a constant distance - some say .625 - I'm using .700 with good luck.

Matt in MO
matt.hull@cptbelts.com
 

deadcell

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The distance from the fresnal lens to the pir sensor should be right at 5/8ths of an inch. And no, flattning it out doesn't affect it at all. DC
 

Jon Bain

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Your laser beam threw me there for a second.  As stated, higher outside temperatures seem to affect the sensitivity range by shortening the distance, but this seems to be true of the factory produced models as well.  I do not intend to use mine this summer.  Drop the red LED’s I had the same problem as you.  Try the green ones I like them a lot better.  Use the distance between the lens and the sensor as stated above.  This is important for sensitivity purposes.  Also, you want to try and center one of the bull’s eyes on the lens over the sensor.
 

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