Surace Mount PIR

Brian

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Arch,

I made the surface mount board finally and it works.  I was able to get the TS parts to work just fine with some mods to my circuit.

Idle it draws about 50uA even with my PIC attached.

I have loaded some pictures on my website to show ya'll.

http://briang.netfirms.com/page20.html
 

swampfox

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wow,brian thats impressive!.how long did it take to buld it and whats the cost?
 

BOHUNTER

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BRIAN,
    we need to come up with sometype of compensation for you....or... really ya need to get ya a LLC or some type of Corp on electronic repairs or something so ya can write all these toys off for business needs and practice stuff. look into it and maybe ya can get ya some patents also..you have lots of talent and it shows....very impressed also...bohunter
 

Brian

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Thanks guys.

Swampfox,

I have about $30 or so in the board which includes everything and it took about two hours from etching to finish.

Bohunter,

I am actually looking into a tax ID so I can do some of this stuff as a business expense.  It might help out in the long run and I do have some things I am trying to patent and package for sale.

Thanks again.
 

Archilochus

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Hi Brian,
Very nice indeed!

Been meanin' to show you my latest toy... Some wierd mirror optic things I picked up at a "salvage" sale a while back. No Fresnel lens needed!!

http://www.geocities.com/archilochus57/pics.html
Select the "small PIR sensor" link

The DIP IC at the of the board top is for the day/night sensor.

Don't 'ya just LOVE those tiny resistors... There are more of 'em on my shop floor than in my circuits! - good thing they're so cheap...

Archilochus



(Edited by Archilochus at 1:21 pm on Mar. 4, 2002)
 

Pgumby68

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Hey Brian, I'm always interested in new stuff for my cams. What all will your board do
 

Brian

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Arch,

Excellent board.  I see we use some of the same parts.   ( Thanks to you.)The mirror is pretty sharp.  I haven't seen one quite like that one.
The DIP IC detects the day/night or do you use the CDS cell for this with the IC.
How do you do the double sided stuff.  I have't tried it yet but I find that it is almost impossible to keep the transparencies lined up from one side to the next.  You have a great technique or a high dollar exposure unit or probably both.
Nice board Arch.  I have been outdone.  Darn.  Time to go back to the drawing board.  

Pgumby68,

My board handles everything.  All that is needed is a camera and a box to put it in with connections to the camera.  The PIR is built in with a 15 sec delay between triggers which is not the same as the delay between pictures that is handled by the PIC which is also on board.  The mode button is on the board as well and the count button is wired using wires so it can be mounted on the outside of the box.  The board will do everything my 35MM document says.  Also, I can adust the gain of the PIR which adjusts the sensing distance of the unit.  I usually move this around from summer to winter.


The board looks great.  I don't even recogize all the stuff on it.  Thats good.
 

kmitch

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Brian,

Fantastic job. I received the info on your other board and was impressed. The only thing missing from it is the ability to tune the sensitivity of the PIR. Now you have added that feature.

From my experience (two cameras for one season) I think the key is to tune everything so it works together. The PIR detection distance matches the area illuminated by the flash, the width of view for the PIR matches the camera field of view, etc. When all this matches you always have game in the photos.

Great Job
Keith
 

Archilochus

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Hi Brian,
The mirror things are great!  No worry about focal length or getting lenses lined up right - and the hole it "looks" through is only ~ 1/2" x 1/4". 90deg FOV and 45+ ft range @ 25C.  Wish I knew where the thing was made!  All the numbers have been ground off - guess whoever was planning to use them didn't want others to find the manufacturer.  Do you know of any companies making similar mirror optics??
>>>>
The board in the picture is not the same one I used with your timer - for that board I left off the day/night IC and put a CDS in place of the photo-transistor (next to the mirror thing).
>>>>
I use the "poor-mans" method for home-brewing PCBs - ink jet photo paper, laser printer, and an iron.  Lining up the sides is a bit tricky.  Using a light box and a scrap of glass, line up the two sides with the glass in between.  Tape one edge of each side of the 'original' to another small piece of material equal in thickness to the PC board.  Remove the glass piece, insert the PCB and iron away.
I like to leave lots of copper on the boards to save on etchant cost.  Also seems to etch a bit faster with less "undercut" on the smaller traces - a real problem with the "toner transfer" method.

I'b be embarassed to show you some of the earlier timer circuit boards I've made :(
I'll just keep 'em hidden away - or even better - replace them with some of your timer chips!

Archilochus
 

Brian

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Arch,

Never seen the mirror stuff before.  Sounds really neat though.  What do you use to cover the hole for the PIR and mirror.  Infrared material?

Man do I have a deal for you if you want to get away from the iron method.
I found a place that has a etch tank for $39.95.  Includes tank, areator pump, and heater.  This tank holds 1 liter of etching solution and will etch a board in about 10 minutes.  It states 4 minutes but it was more like 10 minutes.  It used to take me about 45 minutes.  They also sell the presensitized boards    4 X 6 inch for about $2.58 a piece.  Just lay your artwork over the presensitized board and expose it then use the removeable developer and then put it in the tank and done.  Works great.

Here is their site.

http://www.web-tronics.com/printed-circuit...d-supplies.html

Also,  I found a way to get the Heimann PIR sensors if you want some.  He has about 1000 on hand.  Let me know and I can tell you how to get them.

Oh yeah I noticed you had the wrong link to my site on your site.

http://briang.netfirms.com




(Edited by Brian at 12:37 pm on Mar. 5, 2002)
 

swampfox

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hey Brian,do you think you can modify that cheaper rs look alike that davered1 put a picture of on the other thread? maybe if we sent you one,at least you could show us how to tap into the system to wire it.
 

Brian

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I missed that thread.  I am not sure until I look at it.  I will search for the thread and see.  It is probably under my nose but I looked over it.
 

Brian

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I found it thanks.

I posted a comment on it.  I would have to have a sensor or a schematic to know how it works and how to modify it.  The layout even though surface mount looks similar to the original RS sensor so this is probably the same company Radio Shack buys them from and they have updated their design.  Once some one gets one it can be looked at or just the schematics would help.
 

Archilochus

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Hi Brian,
Thanks for the web-tronics link!  Been meaning to upgrade from the iron-on stuff.
>>>>
The mirror parts came supplied with small oval IR transmissive "windows".  I have an extra mirror and window in my parts box - if you'd like to experiment with one I can send it along to you.  They make for great "micro-cams" when used with a small cam like the Elph LT or a tiny digital cam.
>>>>
I'd love to hear about those Heimann parts!  The RE200s work OK - but I've found the sensors with Heimann PIR elements work better (broader operating temp too).

I'll fix that link - I hate this tiny keyboard - always making typos :(

Archilochus
 

Brian

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Arch,

No problem on the link.

I would love to try out the mirror.  I have four Elph Lts in small boxes now but with this I might be able to graduate to an even smaller box.

I will send you the info on the Heimann.
 

Brian

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******,

Thanks.

It is the same board but the layout is with surface mount chips.  So functionality wise, it works the same but using the surface mount parts.  This saves me time in putting them together.

I would have to charge around $70 for a complete board with all the needed parts.(PIR lens, on/off switch, pushbuttons and connectors and so forth.)

I think it would save everyone a lot of time in putting one of these together.  Just solder the provided wires into the camera and plug it in and turn it on.

Let me know if you want to try one.

And keep in mind I do make changes all the time.  I am working right now on making the 8 pin chip also handle the day/night operation using addressable switches.  I have it partially working right now but I am stumped on a few problems and I haven't had a chance to work on them.  May never get it to work right but I am trying it out and as soon as I get it rock solid I will be adding it to my boards but it will increase the cost by about $5 or so for the extra parts needed.
 

Munce27520

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Brian; I think I'm confused about how much this board would cost me. Here are some clips from previous posts in this thread.
- I have about $30 or so in the board which includes everything and it took about two hours from etching to finish.
- My board handles everything.  All that is needed is a camera and a box to put it in with connections to the camera.  The PIR is built in with a 15 sec delay between triggers which is not the same as the delay between pictures that is handled by the PIC which is also on board.  The mode button is on the board as well and the count button is wired using wires so it can be mounted on the outside of the box.  The board will do everything my 35MM document says.  Also, I can adust the gain of the PIR which adjusts the sensing distance of the unit.  I usually move this around from summer to winter.
- I would have to charge around $70 for a complete board with all the needed parts.(PIR lens, on/off switch, pushbuttons and connectors and so forth.)
Q. - So would my cost be about $70.00 for the complete board?
 

Brian

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Munce27520,

Yes.  This is not the same board as the Etched board for the timer alone.

I really hadn't planned on selling these boards and they take a lot of time to put together(less than without surface mount) so they are priced to make it worth the trouble.  That is why I was saying that it is just not necessarily cost effictive for me to build them.  It is easy to program a chip and let ya'll do the majority of the work but when it takes me two hours a pop to build them then it gets time consuming for me.
If you add up the cost of the RS sensor and the timer chips and all the support hardware for your cameras you are using now plus your time(free) then you have a considerable amount of money in these.  If I build one for everyone I would be busy doing nothing but that until hunting season started.

If I price myself out of the market on building these then I can't help it.  To be honest I prefer not to build the complete board because of the time it takes but I will for this price.

Sorry
 


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