Test LED's

whitetailfan

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I was getting ready to head to the woods to set up my new camera and it occurred to me that just maybe I should install a Test LED disable switch. Has anyone here had a problem with spooking animals with the Test LED or should I just leave it alone. I know I could always just disconnect it before leaving the woods but I was just wondering what experience everyone else had with this.
 



hamiltoe

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I think it's a matter of preference.  I think the flash does more to spook animals then the LED.  If you want to hide the LED, try using velcro.  You can cut a hole in the velcro and stick it to the case so just the LED shows through.  Then use another piece to cover the LED before you leave.  This is cheaper than using a switch.  This is how I used to do mine.  On my latest ones, I just leave the LED as is and haven't noticed a difference.
 

Archilochus

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Hi WTF,
I use a single "run/setup" switch that cuts in the "setup" (test) LED and disables shutter triggering in one position - in the other position it cuts off the LED and enables the cams shutter (and the timer circuits).  I only bother cutting off the LED in "run" because I get obsessive about minimizing power consumption in my circuits.  As it is now my timer / PIR circuit lasts about 8 months on a set of "AA" alkaline batts (at above +40F).

Archilochus
 

Passthru

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 I use the on/off/on toggle also,DPDT center off mini toggle RS#275-620A pictured on how to modify the RS 49-425 PIR,it allows you to use the LED seperate from the camera.
 

kmitch

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I use two switches on all my cameras. An on-off switch and a Test-Arm switch. In the Arm position the test LED is disabled. My primary reason for disabling the LED in the Arm poisition is I find the LED's are not very useful for set-up. I far prefer a sonalert. I can never see the LED in bright sunlight so it's useless. I can usually hear the sonalert. Without the sonalert I have to listen for the relay operation and guess what position the relay is in.

The other thing I have learned is put the switches in the same surface of the enclosure as the PIR and camera lens. I generally use ammo boxes for my enclosures. On the first two I mounted the switches in one of the end panels. Now when I go to retieve a camera if I don't want to trip it and I am approaching from the non-switch side, I have to sneak up on the backside or try to reach around and find the right switch to turn it off without tripping it.

Keith
 

shufigo

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This may be too low tech, but I just have a little flap of olive drab duct tape stuck above the LED, which I stick over the bulb when I turn to the ON position.
 

davered1

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Switch won't hurt. Remember that it takes power to run LED as well. No need for additional battery draw when it can be avoided!!
 

Tinhorn

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I think the main deal is saving batteries, LED's use a "LOT" of current.  

I wouldn't worry too much if it's on only a second or 2 and It was using large batteries, like 6v lantern or C or D's but I'd rather the LED's be disabled.....

Tinhorn
 

d91

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I use a switch. My little batteries (1.2Ah 12V) last a lot longer with the LED off. I have a main power switch, a switch for the LED and a switch for the cam so that once I have everything set up all I have to do is switch the LED off and the cam on. The cam switch is in one wire going to the connection at the PIR. I then stand behind the tree and don't get pics of myself. NO big stroke of genius... I'm sure the rest of you do that as well. Just remember which way is on.
 

Munce27520

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I have been thinking of replacing the LED with a micro buzzer for test mode setup. Oftem times I cannot see the LED and a buzzer would be great to listen for. Just my .02
 


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