Too Good To Be True

Cabin Fever Bob

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Well I finished my cam without any hitches. I was psyched that everything went pretty smoothly and worked like it was suppose to. I tested the PIR, LED, and cam out quite a bit to make sure there were no problems. The PIR was picking up movement out to 50-55' and I taped the sides down a bit to narrow it's field of view. NICE!! Anytime I do something to change anything I always at least flip the LED switch to make sure nothing happened. I have wires and PIR glued in spots to prevent any wires from coming loose.


After repositioning/tucking the cam wires in the housing to get the out of the way I flipped the power switch and then the LED switch to check things out and my chin hit the floor when the LED didn't come on as I certainly wasn't expecting any problems now! I flipped the switch to the cam and it appeared that it wasn't working either as it didn't flash. I went into panic mode because I was preparing to put the cam out today for the first time! Oh S***!!!

I'm clueless using as to how to use a meter but I gave it a shot to see if I could narrow the problem down. I put it on what appears to me was a symbol for "amp" and the display remained on "1". After touching the probes together the #'s raced, so I thought I could use that as an indicator.? Anyway I checked the connection to the power switch and the #'s raced, I assumed that meant that I had power to the switch.? I then checked the LED connection to the DPDT switch and again the #'s raced. Then I flipped the switch to cam and checked the connection there and again the #'s raced. I'm "assuming" that this indicates that I have power to both switches, but I'm really puzzled as to where the problem could be then? I should also mention that these are new batteries(4-"C") that I'm using and just to double check I even put other new batteries in with the same results. I haven't has much sleep lately so I just set it aside for the night.

When it first happened, I figured that one of my power wires must have pulled apart or something but since I tested it with the meter and it "appears"(racing #'s) that both switches are getting power, I don't know what to think. I'm not home right now to tinker with it but it's really bugging me as to what the problem could be. I HATE the thought of cutting the glued PIR, wires, and switches loose if I don't have to to troubleshoot. Any ideas or suggestions on where to start??

BTW, I'm using an Owl PF Date, MS20(WM2), basic stuff(no timers, boards, etc...).

Thanks.
 

bat

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Hey Bob glad to see you got it going "almost".  You may have made a soldering point come loose when you pushed the wires in the cam...check all your points, especially around the PIR area to see if they broke loose.  If you do not find the problem there, try this you said that it worked before you make this change....Taping the fresnal lens to narrow the field of view....you might have placed tape over the part of the fresnal lens that actually was picking up your movement.  If it was working "before" you taped it up then it should be working "after" you taped it, unless you did something else to it.  As a rule look at the last thing that you "changed" before it quit.  Might not have a thing to do with it but it would be worth looking at.  Congratulations on completing the cam...now get that sucker working right.  
bat

(Edited by bat at 11:01 am on June 4, 2002)
 

Tinhorn

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Robert,

disconnect "one side" of the battery and attach the red meter wire to the disconnected battery terminal and the black wire to the disconnected wire going to the PIR.  Meter set to "AMPS", flip the power Switch to "On" and you should get a reading of 16 or 20 ma's  (.016 amps) something like that (on a working unit that is)  if you get no reading, a wire pulled off somewhere or if you get a big amount of current, something is shorted together creating a direct short.  A big amount of current would be anything over a half an amp.

apparently you have a digital meter, you may get -16ma's,  if you are using an analog meter (has a needle) if the needle wants to go backwards, reverse the meter leads....

Just for your information:
Most times you will be using "Volts" on your meter, not "Amps" and you attach the black lead to battery (-) and keep it there, measure volts with the red lead.  I doubt you'd hurt the meter by measuring amps of a battery but if you tried to measure AMPs across your house wiring you might let the smoke out of your meter, or at least blow a fuse......

Bat is probably right, a wire got pulled loose, but I doubt it'd be the tape on the PIR lens because the LED should lite up when power is applied to the PIR (for it's warmup time)

Good Luck!

Tinhorn
 

Cabin Fever Bob

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Bat and Tinhorn - Thanks for the suggestions! I had to "undo" a bit to get down to the problem but everythings working fine now! As I took the battery pack and MS20 out of the box, I left the power switch "On" for the LED. I thought that if it was a short I may bump the culprit wire just right and the LED would come on giving me an indication of where the problem was. Sure enough the LED came on as I was wiggling the negative wire running from the battery pack to the MS20. Come to find out the wire was just about to break off right at the solder joint. The solder itself was fine but I just must have moved things around too much causing the exposed wire to break off.

The cam is now COCKED, LOCKED, AND READY TO ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!! :toast-yellow: :dancinred: :smiley-thumbs-up:   As soon as I finished putting everything back together and testing it, I ran out to camp and hung it in a tree overlooking a deer lick that I made a couple of months ago.

YEAH BABY!!!!!!
 

Tinhorn

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Great!

Fixing things yourself is great isn't it,

I couldn't help but grin and pat myself on the back everytime I got a TV going (was a TV repairman a long time)

Tinhorn
 

bat

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Attaboy Bob,
 Glad you got it going!  Get us some pictures buddy.
bat
 

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