Zero old Leupold 4X

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It is marked L - 0 - R, so I am wondering whether the bullet hole in the target will move Left or Right when I move one click to the Left. In other words, am I moving the Cross Hairs over to the Bullet Hole, or am I moving the Bullet Hole in the Target one Click?

Thanks;
Richard

 

[BelchFire]

I've never seen a scope that didn't move the point of impact by the direction on the dial. Technically, you're moving the crosshairs in the opposite direction, but for simplicity's sake, figure that you're moving the bullet's point of impact. To move the point of impact to the right, dial toward -R.

 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BelchFire @ Sep 21 2008, 02:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

I've never seen a scope that didn't move the point of impact by the direction on the dial. Technically, you're moving the crosshairs in the opposite direction, but for simplicity's sake, figure that you're moving the bullet's point of impact. To move the point of impact to the right, dial toward -R.[/b]

Thanks, my teenager flinches so bad that we are totally confused. I remember buying that scope back in 1968, so it's 40 years old now. I would replace it, but the screws wont come loose anymore. The graduations on the adjustments are numbered in one direction. On the Up or Down it goes from 0 to 36 in the Up direction, and 0 to 36 in the Right direction on the other.

Any idea what one click would equal at 100 yards? We are switching to the new Copper 30-06 Ammo for California, and at $45 a box plus copper fouling inside the barrel, I would like to get zeroed with one or two shots.

Thanks;
Richard

 

[BelchFire]

Normally, a scope should move 1/4" at 100 yards with each click, but Leupolds (at least the current ones) are graduated in minutes of angle, and many are a friction movement rather than a click movement. Additionally, (if memory serves me) it seems like each graduation is 1/2 minute of angle, but I could be wrong on that.

Now in a nutshell, the thing to do is to shoot once at 100 yards, and measure the distance the bullet meeds to move in both directions; up/down and left/right. Then move one graduation for each 1/2" the bullet needs to move (in the appropriate direction, of course). Then fire a test round. If it went where it should, I'd still shoot a second confirming shot, but if not, move more if need be, or back up if need be. Make sure you pay attention to how much the point of impact moves for each graduation you shift, and you should be able to dial it in with a minimum number of shots.

G'Luck!

 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BelchFire @ Sep 23 2008, 06:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Normally, a scope should move 1/4" at 100 yards with each click, but Leupolds (at least the current ones) are graduated in minutes of angle, and many are a friction movement rather than a click movement. Additionally, (if memory serves me) it seems like each graduation is 1/2 minute of angle, but I could be wrong on that.

Now in a nutshell, the thing to do is to shoot once at 100 yards, and measure the distance the bullet meeds to move in both directions; up/down and left/right. Then move one graduation for each 1/2" the bullet needs to move (in the appropriate direction, of course). Then fire a test round. If it went where it should, I'd still shoot a second confirming shot, but if not, move more if need be, or back up if need be. Make sure you pay attention to how much the point of impact moves for each graduation you shift, and you should be able to dial it in with a minimum number of shots.

G'Luck![/b]

OK, thanks a million. Luckily, my boy is an engineering student, so I got him to figured a half of a minute at 100 yards for me. It's 0.5235987793 inches or 1/2 inch at 100 yards. He reminded me that there are no adjustment clicks on the Leupold, but rather graduations on the adjustment dials with plenty of friction. Now, if I can get him to stop flinching. Never thought that 30-06 ammo would ever be hard find, but the new copper Federal Barnes Triple-Shock is usually out of stock when I try to order it.

Do you think I can trust the graduations on the scope dials to move over on target without going to the rifle range? With a wife who is a football fanatic, I don't have many free weekends. Guess I could aim over 4 inches and down 2 inches? Maybe that would be best?

Richard

 

[BelchFire]

Take the time at the range; you'll be glad you did.

If I was trying to be stingy with my ammo, I'd fire a shot, and adjust to that shot. You'll need a solid rest like a Harris bipod to do that, but it gets you VERY close on the first shot. You just have to fire a shot, and then put the rifle on the bipod so that it's freestanding with the cross hairs looking at the dead center of the target (or whereever you were aiming when you fired). Then, VERY CAREFULLY, without moving the rifle, dial the crosshairs over to the point of impact.

Fire a second shot to verify the move and a third if necessary.

Check out this thread. I don't know what you guys are paying for copper ammo, so I can't say what these prices look like, but the other guys like them:
http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/index....=181348&hl=

 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BelchFire @ Sep 25 2008, 06:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Take the time at the range; you'll be glad you did.

If I was trying to be stingy with my ammo, I'd fire a shot, and adjust to that shot. You'll need a solid rest like a Harris bipod to do that, but it gets you VERY close on the first shot. You just have to fire a shot, and then put the rifle on the bipod so that it's freestanding with the cross hairs looking at the dead center of the target (or whereever you were aiming when you fired). Then, VERY CAREFULLY, without moving the rifle, dial the crosshairs over to the point of impact.

Fire a second shot to verify the move and a third if necessary.

Check out this thread. I don't know what you guys are paying for copper ammo, so I can't say what these prices look like, but the other guys like them:
http://www.jesseshunting.com/forums/index....=181348&hl=[/b]

Thanks for the link. I jumped on it yesterday, and found that Able is also out of stock on the Federal Barnes Triple Shock Copper 30-06. The other company doesn't even have it listed. It looks like Federal has a problem keeping its vendors supplied? I noticed that there is a big difference in elevation between Federal Barnes and Remington Lead 30-06 on the target paper with Federal shooting much higher. I will try to find someone with a solid rest like a Harris bipod.

The old Savage 110 that we are trying to get zeroed (some people brag about that rifle!) is only good for the first shot while the barrel is cold. All other shots wander quite a bit depending on how hot it is. I don't flinch much, so the first shot and all other shots after waiting for it to cool will always group to the size of a quarter. I even tried sanding the inside of the stock to make sure that no wood was touching the free floating barrel, and it didn't keep it from drifting while hot.

This old savage 110P that I purchased back in 1968 has a semi-fancy wood stock with some ripple, rose wood trim with white spacers, roll over cheek piece, hand checkering, and solid rubber recoil pad with Savage printed on it. That old rifle is a beautiful sight compared with the new Savage 110 with its black plastic, Through the years, about every ten years, I sand down the stock, hang it from a tree with a coat hanger, and spray it with TRU OIL. Maybe it's because I am getting older, but I prefer a wood stock with a TRU OIL finish.

Have you (or anyone reading this) had problems with a free-floating barrel? Is there a fix? I have thought of purchasing a new model Savage 110, and mounting it in my fancy wood stock. Anyone know if the new 110's are more accurate when they warm up?


Thanks;

Richard

 

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Luckily, I went out to the rifle range to zero the thing, because there is no relationship between the marks on the dial and the screw that moves the scope. Well, other than it will move the zero in the direction of the arrows. During the final adjustments it has a tendency to move 1/2 inch per graduation, but not always. It looks to me like the only thing holding the zero is friction on the adjustment screws? The graduations on the dial are meaningless.


Richard

 

[BelchFire]

I noticed that on the first few Leupolds I tried to work with. What I ended up doing was moving it what I thought was right and then correcting it. If I moved it 6 graduations, and it moved half as far as it needed to, then I'd go back and move another 6 graduations. conversely, if I moved it 8 graduations and it moved twice as far as it should have, I'd move it 4 graduations BACK. Eventually, you'll home in on it like that. After a while, the movement will get smaller and smaller until you're just splitting hairs. When you get there, it's time to go hunting!

 

[ZEKEDAWG]

Zeroing a rifle, alawys gets me into OVERTHINK IT MODE. I confuse the piss out of myself. Belch, for arguments sake, the bullet is striking high 3 inches and right 2 inches at 100 yards, with 1/4" moa at 100 yards, i would need to turn the arrow that says L, in the L direction 8 clicks and the arrow that says U in the opposite direction 12 clicks to make the point of impact drop 3 inches and move left 2 inches. Correct????

Obviously, having the gun locked in a vise and then moving the crosshairs to the point of impact is the easiest but, last weekend we didn't have a vise and i think I was making things worse.

 

[BelchFire]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (ZEKEDAWG @ Oct 6 2008, 11:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Zeroing a rifle, alawys gets me into OVERTHINK IT MODE. I confuse the piss out of myself. Belch, for arguments sake, the bullet is striking high 3 inches and right 2 inches at 100 yards, with 1/4" moa at 100 yards, i would need to turn the arrow that says L, in the L direction 8 clicks and the arrow that says U in the opposite direction 12 clicks to make the point of impact drop 3 inches and move left 2 inches. Correct????

Obviously, having the gun locked in a vise and then moving the crosshairs to the point of impact is the easiest but, last weekend we didn't have a vise and i think I was making things worse.[/b]

Zeke,

If you're dealing with a 1/4 MOA scope you need to move the crosshairs DOWN 12 clicks and LEFT 8 clicks. I prefer to used sandbags rather than a vise. I have seen a vise put enough pressure on the action/barrel to move the point of impact. That's not a problem until you take the vise off and the point of impact moves BACK to where it was originally. Now you've sighted the scope in on a point that isn't true any longer. I use a Harris bipod, but sandbags work if you have a lot of them.

 

[ZEKEDAWG]

Thank you.

The move you make is to move the point of impact not the cross hairs, correct.

When we need to move the point of impact to the left and turn the dial to the left, it is my understanding that the crosshairs actually move right.
With a bow you move the sight to the impact, with a rifle you move the impact to where the sight was(crosshair). Is that a correct statment??

Told you I over think this stuff. I just need to shoot more.


Which way would you move it if you were hunting bigfoot.

 

[BelchFire]

You're right Zeke, you're over-thinking this stuff.

You're right too. When you move the point of impact one way, you're moving the sights the opposite.

For simplicity's sake, just move something and shoot again. If it went in the right direction; GREAT! If it went in the wrong direction, then move it the other way.