Hog Hunting w/a Muzzleloader

[bhfury]

Hello Everyone,

Time for a new way of harvesting hogs on our ranch. So I'm going to try a muzzleloader, but I have some questions. I've searched the DFG website and its as confusing as any government publication. I know if I call them I will get a bunch of different opinions. So, I'm turning to the experts......You guys..

Here are my questions:

1. Can I hunt hogs with a scoped muzzleloader?
2. If I bought a Savage 10ML-ll muzzleloader, can I use smokless power to harvest hogs?
3. Durning muzzleloading deer season, can I use a non-power scope? and would that be considered "iron sights"?
4. What is the perfect load to use. I'm considering buying a .50 cal?

Thanks for your time everyone,
Greg

 

[Speckmisser]

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1. Can I hunt hogs with a scoped muzzleloader?[/b]

Yes.
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2. If I bought a Savage 10ML-ll muzzleloader, can I use smokless power to harvest hogs?[/b]

Yes
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>

3. Durning muzzleloading deer season, can I use a non-power scope? and would that be considered "iron sights"?[/b]

NO. Not for deer. Iron sights are iron sights. No scopes. Remember also that ML Deer Seasons are lottery hunts and require a separate tag.

The thing is, for hogs in most areas, you can shoot any kind of muzzleloading rifle you want, equipped in anyway you want to equip it. The other ML regulations are specifically for ML-only deer hunts.

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4. What is the perfect load to use.  I'm considering buying a .50 cal?[/b]

Haha! There's the million dollar question. It's only worth a million dollars because you can get so many 2 cent answers.

It depends on several things, including which rifle you get. There are a whole bunch of variations nowadays. There is no one-size-fits-all. A charge that works well in a Savage 10ML would likely blow my Hawken to pieces. And the charge that sends a patched ball downrange nice and straight would likely lob a big buffalo bullet with the trajectory of a rock.

Bottom line, pick a rifle and go to the range. Avoid starting with a max load, and work up and down until you get a load that works well with your particular rifle. For most folks, loading a bit shy of max provides the best performance. But then that depends on the bullet type and weight, the kind of powder charge (loose, disc, smokeless, etc.). Even the primer can make a difference.

I love smokepoling, but it's a lot different from shooting a "modern" long gun.

Good luck!

 

[ozstriker22]

I've also been thinking about getting a ML. You can't have too many guns...

I have a general question along the similar lines.

Speckmisser mentioned that it's not the same as a "modern" gun. As you know, a 30.06 runs about $10-$25 for a box of 20 rounds. I purchased 5 boxes of different makes, styles, and grains. Then I patterned each round until I found the weight, make, and style that grouped the tightest with my gun. And I will hunt within what that round can do.

I assume one would need to do the same with a ML. Try different powders and primer combos, different shaped slugs and balls, sabbots, etc... Am I correct? How much $$$ is one going to spend buying the equipment to dial it in? As opposed to buying 5 or 6 boxes of ammo for a modern gun? ML are cheaper to buy than a modern gun, but are they more expensive to use?

And finally, Greg said <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>

I'm considering buying a .50 cal?[/b]

what are the advantages or dis-advantages to buying a .50 instead of a .45 or .55 or whatever other cal are common?

Thanks,

"The Other Jesse"

 

[Speckmisser]

Oz,

I can't speak to the cost of setting up one of the newer MLs. I shoot a Hawken caplock, and will never switch to an inline or any of that stuff. Personal choice.

I can tell you that MLs are a lot like "modern" rifles in that each gun will have a favorite load. Research a little on good ammo, then try out a couple of the best. If you don't like those (you probably will), then try a couple of others. The choices out there are mind boggling.

You probably won't spend a ton of cash dialing it in, but you might spend a small fortune on the addiction once it bites you!

Biggest advantage to shooting a .50 is that it's the most common, so it's easy to find stuff for it. It's like choosing a 30-06 over one of the more exotic calibers... any bohunk town is likely to have ammo for it.

The .45 is probably next most popular, followed by the .54. With the older equipment, the .50 was considered a minimum for big game. The .45 just didn't have the oomph most hunters were looking for. The new powders, ammo, and rifles combine now to make the .45 a lethal caliber as well. I'd expect to see it come on strong in the inlines. However, it'll take a while to replace the .50 as the rifle of choice.

The .54 is just a big ol' gun. You don't need it, really, although it might be a good choice for elk or moose. The .50 will do the trick just about as well, especially with modern loads.

For hogs, I'd still go with the .50, but that's probably the traditionalist in me.

 

[azbiggame]

Speeckmisser gave YOU some good info,about M.L.I'll second the answer about buying a .50 cal. All my "Smokepole" experience is with an INLINE,though.

All the Major manufacturers make them know.Own and shoot 2,a Knight and a Austin& Halleck.Some hunters/shooters think the more THEY cost,the better they must shoot ???Get the Basics,to get started.1-in-28"twist barrel,adj trigger and a accessible safety,two if possible.Everthing else on a M.L. is "French Pastery"

Again as stated earlier post,no two M.L. shoot the same.Time is needed here,down side of shooting M.L.and of course the most important item of M.L. is to "CLEAN-EM"

Check out the state,states You plan on hunting/shooting in.Most have different Rules as to muzzeloader seasons"ONLY".Hunted 2 states this past Season,with different Laws as to M.L. only Seasons.

Welcome to Muzzeloading,purchase a .50 cal,learn how to shoot it and enjoy the "Quality" hunts that most All states offer to M.L.Most biggame animals have been taken with M.L.and know You can harvest a Ca. hog also ---

 

[ozstriker22]

I just checked a few online sources as well as my Shooters Bible, and you're right, the .50 is way more common.

Do any of you own ML sidearms? Are they accurate? I saw a ".44 1863 Navy Revolver" that looked really cool! It strikes me that a ML revolver may not be as safe as a ML long gun... and maybe not as reliable? I don't know, but it appears that the powder in a long gun is protected by the long barrel, but the powder in the revolver is only inside a 3" chamber.

Any thoughts?

 

[Speckmisser]

Oz,

Most states don't allow you to hunt with (or even carry as backup) a ML pistol. For hogs, that's probably wise anyway, since most of them barely generate enough energy to kill cleanly.

I've shot several cap and ball revolvers, and they're a lot of fun. You do have to be careful about loading, as there's always the possibility of getting a spark in an unfired chamber...and that wouldn't necessarily be a good thing.

With a little care and paying attention to what you're doing, the odds are slim of that happening, though.

 

[ozstriker22]

Thanks, Spec.

About the Cap and Ball... I'd be concerned that while firing, some flashback from the firing chamber may ignite the powder in an adjoining, unfired chamber causing

... does that ever happen?

Another thing. Let's say you've got the gun holstered. While walking, what's to prevent the powder and ball from falling out? I'd imagine a good jarring bump would loosen it up a little.


Hmmm.


"The Other Jesse"

 

[Speckmisser]

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About the Cap and Ball... I'd be concerned that while firing, some flashback from the firing chamber may ignite the powder in an adjoining, unfired chamber causing

  ... does that ever happen?[/b]

Yepp, it can happen. However, if you load properly the odds are slim. The loading instructions that come with most new cap and ball revolvers describe how to load with a tight fitting bullet and plenty of bullet lube.

The same goes for the load falling out while holstered. If the load is that loose, then it's not done properly. Also, if the load is that loose, then you're at much more risk of having the unfired cylinder touched off by a spark.

Keep it tight and lube it right. Hey, lookie... I made a rhyme!