Just got a bow... looking for advice

[bisonic]

A buddy recently gave me his old bow for xmas, a Mathews MQ1, and I'm eager to learn how to shoot it with a goal of going after deer and hogs. I've only used a rifle before. I got it restrung and bought a target, but need some advice before I start shooting. There's an archery shop in Petaluma that I'm sure can help but figured I'd first get some ideas here.
- I need some arrows as the ones that came with it probably aren't the right fit. What should I get? As I'll be hunting and not competing I suspect I don't need the greatest ones, but I don't want junk.
- Same with broad heads. Fixed vs. mechanical?
- The arrow rest is the original shoot-thru type. Should I get a whisker biscuit? I know the drop-aways are nice but probably overkill for what I need.
- The sight has three fiber optics on it. What distances should these be set for - 20/30/40 yards?
- Any general tips on either learning to shoot or basics of archery for hogs? To the latter, I'm curious how to stalk within shooting range.

BTW Bow is 70 lb draw, 29" draw length.

thanks!

 

[Bubblehide]

Bisonic, it's been a long long time since I had a bow, so I'm not going to give you any infor on brands, arrows... But once your done getting initial advice here, I do suggest that you go to the archery shop and purchase from them, and while your there, ask to shoot their practice arrows at their indoor range and request they help fit the bow to you, i.e., adjust the peep, arrow length... so your bow shoots it's best for you. Basically let them know they have a new customer, and an interest in helping you out as best they can.

Okay TRA, where are you????

 

[Deleted member 33033]

First you need to go in, get measured and find out what your draw length is and what draw weight you can handle. Then you will be in a position to determine if this bow is shootable for you or not. Rifles are nothing like bows. Every bow is customized to the shooter. Unlike a gun that's been sighted in...you cannot pick up a bow and shoot it accurately like a gun. The bow is tuned to you! You are way ahead of yourself. Spread your arms out to your sides like this:

Measure the distance from longest fingertip to fingertip and divide by 2.5. That's gonna be (or very close to) your actual draw length. That's step 1.

 

[bisonic]

Measure the distance from longest fingertip to fingertip and divide by 2.5. That's gonna be (or very close to) your actual draw length. That's step 1.

Thanks Bruce (my name too!) - Already did this at the shop before having it restrung and the bow works for me in both weight and draw.

 

[Bigbadboar]

Given your experience the first thing I would've suggested is the visit/s to a pro-shop to get you setup. Then practice and learn how to adjust and fix things. GET A MULTI-SIZE ALLEN WRENCH and keep it with you when practicing.
-Arrows: If your going after hogs then look for a thin and heavy arrow. One that is 12.0 +/- 2.0 grains per inch should be good
-Broadheads: Shot placement is key. Try at least a couple of different brands/styles on a broadhead target to gain confidence when shooting them, even if it means sacrificing them. Start off trying a Rage 2-blade 100 grain mecanical and a G-5 Montec 100 grain or 125 grain if you're after that bruiser boar.
-Whisker Biscuit get the job done and are very reliable. Have your shop put one on, but make sure it is the correct size for the arrow that you're going to shoot. Then down the road if you have some play money you might want to look into drop-away rests.
-You can easily adjust your sights by yourself with an allen wrench, and you will be doing this often during pre-hunting. If you're shooting a 70 lb draw with a 10 grain per inch arrow your 20 and 30 yard pin will practically be the same so don't worry about the pins until you have your arrows and broadhead weight (100 or 125 grain) picked out. If you want to shoot past 40 yards look into a .010" size pin, .019" will be good for under 40 yards. TRY AND KEEP IT SIMPLE HERE. A 12 grain/inch arrow with a 100 grain broadhead and 70 lb draw should allow you to have 2 pins, top pin .019" 0-30 yards and bottom pin .010" set for 40 yards. Anything further will probably be just for fun at the range.
-General tips? You can shoot with one eye open or 2 eyes, do your best to keep a consistent anchor point, and get as close as possible. I can't tell you anything that you don't know already about stalking into range on a hog, but I can show you so PM me if you're interested.

Good luck, keep it simple, get as close as possible, and prepare yourself for the outrageous heartbeat you will get from stalking into 5-20 yards.

 

[Deleted member 33033]

A dropaway is superior and improves accuracy beyond 40 yards, forget the WB. Axis small diameter arrows of proper spline are tough and fly better in wind. Exodus heads are my choice. Download OT2 before you build your ideal arrow for hunting. That arrow selection program rocks! Western style bow hunting requires longer shots so set the 3 pins at 20, 40 and 60...shoot the center spaces between em for 30 & 50. get good to 60 yards ASAP.

 

[THE ROMAN ARCHER]

Congrats bio on getting into bow hunting my friend u will be silent but deadly while hunting with a bow nothing more challenging or exciting.
Yeh at 70 lb,s There will be some serious juice behind those arrows when they fly and hit.
The guys gave u some great advice but here my 2 cents.
As far as rest whisker biscuit are ok I am hot a fan of them and most people who start out with them end up changing to a drop away, WB are a good capture rest but eventually the brush wear slightly and will effect arrow accuracy. I prefer a full capture rest and been using for years the Q.A.D. Ultra Rest drop away my self.
But u can Google reviews on the W.B. and other rest to get a general idea and opinions of the pros and cons the good the bads the positives and negatives of rest u are intrested in.
As far as arrow choice for your draw weight and draw length u will be looking at a 350g arrow with a spine around 3000.
Go to the HuntersFreind.com website and on the right side of the Web page u will see a menu and click on (Arrow University ) this is super great info for proper arrow selection and sizing and everything else u need to understand about arrow selection.

And they have other topics in detail to do with bows and arrows u will find very informational and helpful for sure so check it out.
What brand and model sight do u have on your bow now, u can always add 2 more pins to your sight to give u marked 20,30,40,50,60 yrd. Distances to utilize.
With a 3 pin sight Bruces suggestion on pin yardage settings 20, 40, 60, is a good set up to get out to 60 yrds then u would gap shoot between your 20- 40 for 30 yrds and gap shoot between 40-60 for 50 yrds. Gap shooting is eyeing and shooting in the middle of the gap between 2 pins.
If u are uncomfortable with shooting out to 60 yards then stick with 20,30,40.
As far as broadheads u will get a 1000 different opinions on broadhead selection, hogs as u know have a thick coat of hair to penatrat so u want a head that will really blast a good hole to create a blood bath even with a good hit they run hard and fast and always head into the thick stuff but with a good blood trail it will be easier to find unless u have dogs.
Mechanical heads are ok but require a special quiver that keeps the blades from popping opening prematurely, so then that would be another investment and they cost. If i had to use a mech head it would be rages or grim reapers.
I prefer a 3 blade solid myself now use to use mechs but went back to solids.
They make solid heads that will penatrat a hogs shoulder blade now in case the arrows hits that spot Montecs by G5 is one and there are others, I use nap Hellraisers myself now.
Just like I said with arrow selection u can do the same with broadheads Google up what u are intrested in and read reviews and opinions to help u with your decision.
Do have a release to shoot with?
As far as stalking and getting close to a hog to get a shot with a bow it's simple basics play the wind take your time creeping up on them, their eyesight is not that great but thier nose is spot on for human detection but I know that u know that already because u are a very successful pig hunters with a gun just wirh a bow it's a slightly different ground game.
Me I like to stop about every 60 yards and listen and smell for hogs. U will hear them chomping and snorting and squeeling when the are in packs. And with the wind in your face u will smell a nasty stinky hog that's close by.
It's not totally necessary but u can buy a small bottle of windacator to use for wind direction.

Well i hope this helps u out my friend if u need anymore info or advice hit me up u can pm me anytime too no problem. Have a great day!.... tra

 

[Grasslandhntr]

Bisonic I highly recommend you check out west coast Archery in Petaluma Hans is a good friend of mine and an outstanding Archer/hunter always more than willing to share his knowledge and help you out. You can also call ahead and book lessons to learn proper form so you don't learn bad habits

 

[OPAH]

Very good info all the way down the page, Drop rest (yes), Good bright sights (Yes) and get It set up with a trigger (YES)
Arrows and tips its a buffet, as TRA said you are going to need a healthy spine for the 70lbs.
You have a world of super great archers on this Forum they will have the info you need, the best I can say for you is:
Practice Practice Practice, spend the time tuning your bow and since you plan to hunt, practice in different positions, setting on a stool, setting on one and both knees, setting on the ground. do not limit your self to the standing position.

Have fun, get accurate, and go chase some game, you will fall in love with it !!!!

 

[bisonic]

All great info - knew I could count on my JHO friends! Thanks much and I'll head to West Coast Archery as a next step.

 

[Wild1]

Welcome to the brotherhood!! Be prepared, bowhunting is the highest of highs and the lowest of lows - and it's quite addicting! One thing I would do is find a certified pro archery instructor in your area and take a couple of lessons - it's worth learning the right way, from the beginning - mostly just to get your form dialed in (anchor point, body stance, form, arm, elbow....etc.). Also, invest in a portable target to practice with (block with a handle), easy to store and move. Bow components vary as much as personalities, take your time and use what works best for you and your bow. My set-up, which I love and have been very successful with: drop away rest (trophy taker extreme), spot hogg sights (expensive), carbon express red arrows (also pricey) and SlickTrick Magnum 125 broad heads (shoot wonderfully straight out of my bow). Good luck and enjoy!! NOTE: do a search of my handle "wild1"

 

[slowpoke]

My buddy’s 55 lb bow with micro diameter shafts out penetrates my 73 lb bow with thicker, heavier and faster arrows, so the micro shafts are a great idea. He uses the exodus broadheads and I use slickTrick both with great results. The two biggest things I try to show new archers on hogs is get closer and aim low and forward. Pigs are tough animals and usually don’t bleed a lot, but on the other hand they don’t see too well and are usually pretty easy to get close to. Enjoy, in my mind they are the perfect archery quarry!

 

[Wild1]

slowpoke -


No disrespect intended, just some added information: first, pigs are not easy to get close to if the wind isn't right. I've been chasing dominate boar, on public land, for over five years, and he can wind me more than 50 yards away! Not sure about the "aim low" part either, if it's low in the mid-section you will never recover your pig. Like any game animal, you have to know where the vitals are and put the arrow where it's supposed to go (see attach.). About the bleeding, well it all depends: a nice boar with an arrow in the shoulder may not, but a hog with an arrow through both lungs will bleed like a......stuffed pig! Good luck!!

 

[flytrue]

My 2 cents. The last boar I took down left very small drops of blood for about 75 yards. It was a double lung shot. Most of the blood was pooled up inside the heart/lung cavity. I've lost 3 this year. They are tough! Rain washing out the blood trails didn't help either.
I shoot 3 pins. Close, medium, and far. Any more pins than that and I get confused in the heat of the moment. The opportunities come quick and don't last long, you have to shoot quick some times.
I find most pigs with my ears first, eyes come in close second.
Fixed over mech.
Have fun!

 

[Beastmode]

I would disagree. I have smoked a few animals that have hardly bled at all. Good shots, pass through and no blood for a long time. My elk this year grazed the top of the heart and bottom of both lungs. Complete pass through. Hide and fat closed off the wound and he didn't start bleeding until after 50 yards and the only reason he did was because he stumbled a little which opened up the wound. I have shot pigs that only left a drop or two on the ground. They just bled out internally.

To the OP make sure you are getting as good as possible at tracking. Not just blood but tracking an animal that isn't bleeding. Study animals where ever you can even if it's at a local state park. Watch how they move in an area and go look at their tracks. Animal behavior, stalking and tracking are all skills a proficient bowhunter needs to be finely tuned on. Shooting a bow accurately is just part of becoming a good bowhunter.

Be patient and read whatever info you can. Check out different forums, after a little bit you should be able to spot the keyboard warriors vs the guys who know what they are talking about.



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[THE ROMAN ARCHER]

Well like I mentioned in my post when a hog has real thick hair when thier hit the hair soaks up the blood like a sponge and then quagulates then it slows the bleeding down to a trickle or stops the bleeding and then the blood trail dissappears and it makes it hard to track them and u end up with no recovery., that's why I also mentioned to use a broadhead that will blow a whole in them to create a good bleed out.
But noting set in stone when it comes down to pig hunting Murphys law happens alot after the shot.....tra

 

[Beastmode]

Well like I mentioned in my post when a hog has real thick hair when thier hit the hair soaks up the blood like a sponge and then quagulates then it slows the bleeding down to a trickle or stops the bleeding and then the blood trail dissappears and it makes it hard to track them and u end up with no recovery., that's why I also mentioned to use a broadhead that will blow a whole in them to create a good bleed out.
But noting set in stone when it comes down to pig hunting Murphys law happens alot after the shot.....tra

It's amazing how tough these animals really are. I highly recommend following TRA'S advice and get an extremely tough cut on contact head.

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[Wild1]

Could you guys post up a picture (or two) of your animal(s), pigs, that didn't leave a blood trail....?

 

[slowpoke]

I think I got some attached... haven't posted pictures here in a long time. This pig was shot in the heart and made 50 yards before I found a drop of blood. You can see the lack of blood near the entrance wound. After another 15 or 20 yards it rolled down the hill not leaving any sign. Even with relatively relaxed pigs on private land you cannot come in from the upwind side. Wild1 I think you hunt a lot of pigs on public land (?) and they are night and day different than where I hunt on private property in Sonoma and Parkfield. The most common problem we run into in recovering pigs, the pigs were shot too high and a little far back. In a typical year I will be around 15-20 archery shot wild hogs so I am far from and expert, but not really a novice either

 

[slowpoke]

the other side