Kentuck

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DFG pointed out to the group of hunters the year I hunted Antelope in CA that if you want to mount your buck be very carefull when handling the hide. Their hair comes off very very easily. If you drag it watch out. You can actually pull on the hair and it will off by the handfulls.
 

Reuben

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Even after you tan an antelope hide the hair comes off very easily. They are very difficult to take out of the field without pulling any hair off.
 

OpusX

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Their hair doesn't do well over time even if you do get it out in half decent condition.

Go woth one of these: EU Mount
 

bzzboyz

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I've heard that, but I have not had any problem with my last three. What I do is get it skinned as soon as possible. I then double bag the cape and head , all the way up to the base of the horns, with real thick trash bags, and keep it packed in ice till I get to the taxidermist. So far this has worked. At least with the ones that are already mounted. Be sure and keep the water drained out of your cooler. Ice and air are colder than ice water.
 

DKScott

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
What I do is get it skinned as soon as possible. I then double bag the cape and head , all the way up to the base of the horns, with real thick trash bags, and keep it packed in ice till I get to the taxidermist.[/b]

That's what I did and my mount looks great.

BTW: Ice water is actually much colder than ice/air, but the wetness presents other difficulties.
 

bzzboyz

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
BTW: Ice water is actually much colder than ice/air, but the wetness presents other difficulties[/b]

We might have to put that one to a test. Back in the days when I was in the beer business and was doing setups at church bizzares and the such selling keg beer, we were always told to drain the water out of the ice tubs cause the beer would get colder without the water in the tubs. I never tested the tempurature in the tub, but we would test the temperature of the beer, and it would always come out colder after we removed the water and added more ice.
 

DKScott

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I rely on my college physics and chemistry experience. An ice water slurry should provide the coldest condition. The other thing I learned was that the cheap throw-away styrofoam coolers were more efficient than the expensive sporting goods store variety. Not sure how the new 5-day ones measure up. In any event, I use dry ice and piled sleeping bags to transport when possible.
 

Haary

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I usually put the hide and the meat in big plastic garbage bags and then pack ice around it in the ice chest.
 

subfan

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If we score, we will haul them in the deer cart...
 

Nate_Smith2

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In my physics class we studied manual properties. But earth science was where we studied temp holding characteristics of different materials. Water must be above 32 degrees. Ice must be below. Ice/Water slurry must be somewhere in between.

But none of this really matters. Liquids will absord heat from anything they come into contact with that is of a higher temp. It will cool off the meat faster than ice. But it will not cool it off any more than 33 degrees. And that is assuming the water is 33 degrees. If the water goes up to 50 degrees then that is the temp that will be absorbed.

Ice water...if it stays at 33 degrees...will cool that hide faster. But be real careful to keep it at 33 degrees.

And that is why I drain the water from my beer cooler. I know what temp Ice is. I want the beer to be colder than slushy water...I want it ICE cold. Hide too.

Nate
 

gonehunting

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What about salting the hide as soon as you skin it? I would think that would make a world of difference. It dries out the skin and "shrink wraps" around the hairs. I haven't got an antelope, but I do that with all the capes I plan on having mounted. Or is that a no-no with antelope?
 

bzzboyz

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I know alot of people salt their hides, but I don't. Mainly because my taxidermist doesn't like me to bring them to him salted. I'm not sure why, but I figure he's the expert so I'll do what he wants.
 

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